The Oboe BBoard

The Oboe BBoard The C4 standard

New Topic | Go to Top | Go to Topic | Search | Help/Rules | Smileys/Notes | Log In

Re: I did it!

Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-03-07 21:45

Take all the top joint keys off, remove the existing tenon cork with a screwdriver scraping around the tenon, not up and down it.

Scrape all the glue from the slot and degrease it thoroughly with isopropyl or methylated spirits (denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol, call it what you wish depending on the regional variation) which will remove any remaining adhesive, and provided you have good quality 1.5mm thick sheet cork (have this BEFORE you start) and a good impact adhesive (eg. Evo-Stik).

Measure the slot in the tenon and cut a strip of cork the EXACT width with a straight edge and SHARP scalpel - and do make sure the strip of cork is not too narrow or too wide. Bevel one end of the cork strip (a shallow angle of around 20º-30º from horizontal) as you want the ends to overlap instead of butting together as this can cause it to leak.

Coat the UNDERSIDE of the cork strip evenly with Evo-Stik (I use old clarinet reeds with the tips cut square to spread glue with) and also coat the bevel (the bevel is on the upper side), and coat the slot with Evo-Stik as well. Wait for 10 minutes for the Evo-Stik to go touch dry and stick the bevelled end of the cork strip in the slot, bevel side UP.

I personally stick the bevelled end of the strip so it lines up with the centre line of the BACK of the joint (so it's lining up with the back 8ve touchpiece) so once finished, the join can't be seen.

Press it down firmly with the glue spreader (the end without any glue o it) and then wind the rest of the cork strip around, pressing it down firmly as you go until you stick the free end down so it's overlapping the bevel. Cut the remainder of the strip off and again with a SHARP scalpel so there's a continuous strip of cork in the slot with no bits sticking out, if there are, file them down.

Then get some 180 grit emery cloth torn into a 1/2" strip (about 6" in length or longer) and use this to shape the cork so it's evenly domed from top to bottom. Before greasing, make sure you can fit the tenon part way (about 2/3 the way). If not, sand it down some more, sanding it evenly.

The best way to hold the joint while sanding is to have a bench peg in the front end of your workbench so you can locate and rotate the tenon in it while applying pressure from your stomach which frees up both of your hands which you will need to hold the sanding strip with.

Try it again to see how it fits, and if you can get it 2/3rds the way in (though still a bit on the tight side) then apply cork grease and that's it fitted. Now put the keys back on and check the regulation between the RH 1 and the linkage on the top joint, RH 1 adjusting screw and G# pad cup and the clearance between the RH C-D trill lever and the linkage on the top joint.

If you have access to a lathe, you can mount the joint between centres and spin it at high speed, using a piece of emery paper to shape the cork with (which gives a much better and even finish). But watch the chuck jaws if you're working close to them - they can rip up fingernails or smash your knuckles if you do get too close.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Reply To Message | Avail. Forums | Flat View

Newer Topic | Older Topic

Topics

Author

Date

I did it! new

cowtime

2008-03-03 22:09