Author: jhoyla
Date: 2008-03-06 04:48
Back off all the screws and start again, according to the sequence in the Sawicki book, or as written in this link:
http://www.oboehouse.com/images/OboeAdjustmentGuidebySeaton.pdf
Since many of the screws detailed here won't be on your instrument, you should probably go according to the function of the screws (i.e., figure out which screw performs the same function on your instrument, and adjust that).
Are you sure you have seated your new pads correctly? Use a narrow strip of cigarette paper to feel all round each pad, all sides - does the new pad grip the paper evenly, all the way round? If not, if you used shellac or heat-glue you may be able to "float" the pad to the correct angle with a little heat applied to the cap (spirit burners are cheap, leave no deposit and have a low heat).
If you used brand-new cork pads, you can try letting them seat for a few days, by wrapping each pad tightly closed - I use my patented 1 cm rolls of cling-film (saran wrap) for this, but I'm sure you can use plumber's tape also.
Regarding old pads: as these get older they lose flexibility, so your margin for error becomes so much smaller - the "adjustment window" you need to hit is much tighter. Adjust screws 10-15 degrees at a time, testing each time with your cigarette paper. Use normal/light finger pressure on the keys - too heavy, and you're fooling yourself.
Also, problems playing low notes often come from the TOP joint not sealing correctly - check your top joint for leaks also! In fact, vacuum-test it right now. See the "weird reed" thread on this bulletin board to see how a top joint can affect low notes!
Once you get it right, a tiny drop of clear nail-varnish on each screw-head will prevent them from slipping out of place. It is easily cracked open with your screwdriver if you need to adjust further.
J.
Post Edited (2008-03-06 08:14)
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