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Re: I did it!

Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-03-07 10:38

Use a pad slick (or pad iron) to shift the pads around with - it's a thin flat piece of steel (stainless or high tensile) and you can usually find them listed on eBay and can come in sets of three or five, each end of each pad slick has two different diameter discs so they will be suitable for all sizes of pads (skin pads being between 7mm-15.5mm on most oboes).

Or use the larger smooth end of a cheap sheet steel nail file from your local chemist - these come in different sizes and can be adapted for this purpose by cutting or filing to shape.

Once the shellac is warm and the pad can be moved, use the pad slick on the face of the pad to shift it around, and if the pad skin is wrinkled, you can use the pad slick to iron out the wrinkles. Wet the pad surface so you have droplets on it, and heat the pad iron in a (smoke-free) flame and iron out the creases. The water may sizzle and this will make the pad skin tighten. Practice this on an old pad so you can judge just how much heat you need, obviously heating the pad iron up too much will burn the pad skin to a crisp.

Under adjusting screws, glue thin leather instead of cork as the adjusting screw tips won't chew through leather as easily as they will do with cork. The best kind of leather to use is the thin brown leather used on sax pads, so get a large sax pad and chop it up for the leather covering. There are other kinds of silencing materials that can be used, but at this stage use what you can get hold of easily.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

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I did it! new

cowtime

2008-03-03 22:09