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Re: Balky Oboe

Author: Chris P
Date: 2007-04-29 09:21

You could either have some bent keywork binding on the steels, or the spring tension could be out of balance.

On most oboes, the right hand main action needs the spring tensions balanced in this way. Here's an idea of the sprign tensions (starting from the top) for a conservatoire oboe without the split D#-E mechanism:

Top joint:

Top 8ve - medium to slightly heavy.
Lower 8ve pad cup - light.
Lower 8ve thumb lever - heavy.
3rd 8ve - slightly heavy.
Upper trill pad cup - medium
Lower trill pad cup - lighter than the upper one.
LH1 - medium to light.
C - light.
LH2 - medium to light.
Bb - light.
LH3 - medium to light.
G# (RH G#) - light.
G# touch (LH) - slightly heavy.
Link ('conservatoire bar') - heavy.
(Thumb plate - pretty heavy - it has to keep the con bar held down)

Bottom joint and bell:

RH1 - light - the link ('con bar') will make this feel heavy anyway.
F# vent - light.
C-D trill lever - light.
RH2 - medium to light.
F key - medium.
RH3 - medium to slightly heavy.
F vent - very light to light, but make sure it still works.
C key - medium light.
C# key - medium to slightly heavy.
C# pad cup (articulated C#) - light.
Eb key - light (to stop it flapping around).
B key - medium light.
Eb pad cup - light spring on cup, heavy master spring on body.
Bell key link - light to medium light.
Bell key - light to meduim light.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2007-04-29 10:37)

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Balky Oboe new

ohsuzan

2007-04-07 18:56