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Re: Balky Oboe

Author: Chris P
Date: 2007-04-28 10:11

Here's how I'd regulate the RH (lower joint) main action on a full Gillet conservatoire oboe (use the finest cigarette papers as a feeler gauge to check pad pressure):

With the screws all backed off, close fingerplates 2 and 3, and regulate the F vent so it closes with the same pressure as fingerplate 2. That's your F vent regulated.

Next you need to regulate the F# vent with fingerplates 2 and 3, the upper screw on the F# vent (the small key between fingers 1 and 2) regulates it with fingerplate 2, so adjust this so both the F# vent and fingerplate 2 have the same pressure. The lower screw on the F# vent regulates it with fingerplate 3, so adjust it so you have equal pressure under both these pads.

Check for double action - to get rid of the double action, adjust the screw next to the F key pad (which holds the rocker and F vent closed) until the double action has been eliminated. Adjust the screw on the C key touch so it holds the middle fingerplate ALMOST closed, but not closed completely - there needs to be a tiny amount of movement in the mid fingerplate while the C key is closed, around 0.5mm maximum.

Next you need to regulate the Eb key with the C key - hold the LH eb key down and close the C key. Adjust the screw on the Eb key so it closes fully with the C key.

Now hold the C# key open and close the low B key, and regulate the closure of the C# pad with the low B pad.

Fit the bell and regulate the low B and Bb bell key - watch the bell key to see if it moves before or after the B key moves. If it moves later, tighten the adjusting screw on the far right lower end of the LH pinky keys - if it moves too soon, back off the adjusting screw. This does NOT adjust the closure of the bell vent pad - the bell vent pad should already be closed. If it isn't, then the bell key has been bent or the cork under the link is too thick.

Now you have the low B, Bb keys regulated, you need to check there's some double action in the LH pinky keys and the Eb master spring. If you have the split D#-E trill (the split fingerplate for RH 3) then you need to regulate this with the LH Eb key - make sure there's a tiny amount of play between the inner screw of the LH pinky keys (at the lower end) and that it's opening against the body. Check the pad on RH 3 closes at the same time. If RH 3 pad closes with LH Eb and there's still a gap under the Eb master spring, back off the adjusting screw on the clutch in the middle (on the small lever half way up the LH pinky key barrel). If RH 3 doesn't close and the Eb master spring is held against the body, adjust the screw on the clutch until you have more pressure on the RH 3 pad.

Now you need to put the top joint on and regulate the F#-G# link - adjust the screw on the bend from RH 1 so it closes against the G# pad cup when tested with a feeler gauge.

Check the RH C-D trill lever with the link - there should be double action between them. If not, your C-D trill key pad will be held open.

Make sure there's double action when you close RH 1 with the link on the top joint - there should be a small amount of double action before it touches the link, and after RH 1 is fully closed. If there's no double action it will be holding the top joint Bb and C keys open. If there's no double action AFTER RH 1 is closed, it can hold RH 1 open.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

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Date

Balky Oboe new

ohsuzan

2007-04-07 18:56