Author: vboboe
Date: 2006-07-23 22:19
... a Loree post is 3.5mm at widest? That's good to know, thanks, can visualize that size nicely after working on reeds awhile
... OK, so then, really perhaps the most accurate statement and the top priority thing is to protect a wood instrument by keeping it as much as possible within moderate *** humidity *** ranges
... LOL, don't mind belaboring the point, yes, do let's do something low in body fluid evaporation at the computer in a shaded room, it's Too Hot just now for much else
<<I don't think the tolerances are so tight on the post holes that you need to worry about an imagined problem if cracks caused by thermal changes>>
... do concede that, comparatively speaking, there's quite a gap between post and wood from a human perspective
... but, surely the distances between average quality grenadilla wood * fibres * would be measured in micrometers too ???
... so it seems to me circa 2 micrometers metal expansion would be quite significant to wood fibres; after all, it's the wood fibres which shrivel, split and separate, and when it becomes a huge Grand Canyon, big enough for human eyes to see it, oh no, my oboe's cracked!
... then there's the radiant heat distance from the fire to consider, the hotter the metal, the more comfortable wood would be * further away * but in fact is even closer than normal due to metal expansion in a limited space, so wood's toast
... let's think size small and fine, and make measurement comparisons based on wood's perspective, not on friendly giant oboe craftsman perspective
<<Better to worry about the *actual* problem of the wood shrinking and expanding due to changes in humidity ... wood swells and contracts readily with changes in humidity, the percentage changes are on the order of 0.5 percent per percent change in moisture content of the wood ... at least that's what i found for rosewood >>
... agree in principle about humidity changes (but i'd already narrowed my original apple discussion to hot dry weather, what are these juicy oranges doing here?) -- oh, i get it, this topic too dry, needs moisturizing!
... i believe rosewood is softer and more porous than grenadilla and would absorb (and lose) more moisture anyway, and if that's 0.5% for rosewood, OK, then obviously do take more painstaking care of a rosewood oboe than relatively casual care of a plastic lined grenadilla oboe
<<I think this is particularly bad when playing in a cold room since the relative humidity drops when the air is cold, but the breath you put into the oboe is moist>>
... infer you do mean that breath put into oboe is WARM and moist when playing in a cold room
:-) brings us back full circle :-) to querant's original query about warmups
... agree, this is exactly the kind of situation when oboe should be warmed up with external body heat before blowing it
... but please, not today, it's warm enough to play with hot moist breath :-)
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