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Author: RobinDesHautbois
Date: 2010-09-11 17:15
OH GEEZ, I haven't the foggiest idea!
My stock of tube (canon) cane was "acquired" from various other oboists and a little from Brian Charles N.Y. I would say that Roseau Chantant is a good place for shaped cane (in terms of quality) because I mostly went to him when trying out different shapes. This says nothing about canon cane, however.
In the 1990s, I was pleasantly surprized with "California Cane" (no idea of the producer). www.oboe-shop.de says that Argentinian cane is also excellent, if you prefer a bit softer cane. I've ordered a bunch of different brands from them, but it'll be a good 3 months before I get anything ---- the order was to justify their effort in getting Kunibert Michel shapers for me. Even when I get them, I plan to let them sit in a closet for a few years.
You see, if the cane is so grainy that (when you're splitting the canons) it breaks in a puff of dust, then I discard it! Otherwise, I check for flatness and nothing else. I am only now starting to sort by radius (diameter). In terms of flatness, only about 1/5 of the cane is actually decent. Luckily, I keep my tolerances loose under the assumption: "if I can't make a good reed with it in 30 minutes, then I'll just toss it and try with another piece".
For flatness, I often split in 2 with a knife rather than 3 with an arrow head (more work pre-gouging, but you maximize yield of flat pieces). Because canons vary in length from slightly more than one piece to well more than 2 pieces, I get anywhere between 2 and 6 (rare) pieces per canon. Long canons are usually more curved, so I suppose the average is 3 pieces per canon over all. I don't toss many canons at all.
"Un-flat" cane:
- when concave: will slip out of the gouger and break
- when convex: will separate the blades of a finished reed --- the best reed will only be playable for a few minutes a day. Definitely not usable in concert.
=> The flatness need not be perfect, however. Most good cane kind of slithers convex/concave over its length: this seems to average out to a good useable cane.
In terms of hard/soft cane, I've had good reeds and bad reeds with all descriptions. The few traditions that seem to stick (I don't know the scientific details, but results have proven again and again that these are the things to do) are:
0. When tying, NEVER SLIP (sideways overlap) the cane blades: American school players will clobber me for saying this.... anyway, according to Jay Light's book. But I'm pretty sure all European schools will agree.
1. Tie tightly enough and at a length that closes a few thread twists before the staple end. (Don't measure the length, adjust as you're tying.)
2. Let the tied "reed blank" dry for at least 2 weeks: a few months is better. I just leave it in the reed case untill I get time to scrape it.... usually 2-3 months later!
3. scrape the heart and the tip immediately after tying so the grains won't make the reed excessively open. This is not an actual reed-scrape, but just a preparation to weaken the pivot and spring points. When you scrape for real, the "tied heart" will end up being the reed tip.
I hope this is what you were looking for. I don't think of yield percentage in terms of profit versus the price of store gouged cane, but rather in terms of doing everything and seeing first-hand the effects. I can better control parameters this way. Then again, I did buy my gouger for 100$ in the late 1980s!
Robin Tropper
M.A.Sc., B.Mus., B.Ed.
http://RobinDesHautbois.blogspot.ca/music
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-16 10:50 |
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Chris P |
2010-06-16 11:50 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 07:47 |
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jhoyla |
2010-06-16 17:39 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-16 22:45 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 00:10 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-18 03:27 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 10:05 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-18 11:05 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 16:38 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-18 23:37 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 16:46 |
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Chris P |
2010-06-16 23:03 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 02:06 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 04:33 |
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jhoyla |
2010-06-17 05:50 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 06:22 |
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ceri |
2010-06-17 20:21 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 23:28 |
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ceri |
2010-06-18 20:32 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-19 00:26 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-19 01:38 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-19 18:28 |
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ceri |
2010-06-19 13:16 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-19 14:43 |
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HautboisJJ |
2010-06-19 17:34 |
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jhoyla |
2010-06-19 21:30 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-20 01:16 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-20 01:20 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-20 05:49 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-21 03:02 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-21 10:13 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-18 06:15 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-18 13:23 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-20 07:56 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-20 10:28 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-20 23:05 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-21 03:23 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-20 23:15 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-21 03:37 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-21 06:33 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-29 00:22 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-29 23:02 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-06 00:44 |
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ceri |
2010-09-06 14:48 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-07 09:57 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-07 09:38 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-07 10:21 |
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ceri |
2010-09-07 14:56 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-07 16:10 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-07 22:33 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-08 00:18 |
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ceri |
2010-09-08 11:22 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-08 12:47 |
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GoodWinds |
2010-09-09 03:49 |
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ceri |
2010-09-09 07:17 |
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JRC |
2010-09-10 15:41 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-10 16:56 |
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JRC |
2010-09-10 18:37 |
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wkleung |
2010-09-10 19:10 |
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JRC |
2010-09-10 19:54 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-11 15:30 |
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Re: Making short scrape European style oboe reeds easy new |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-11 17:15 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-12 00:07 |
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mjfoboe |
2010-09-12 03:16 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-12 03:23 |
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mjfoboe |
2010-09-12 12:21 |
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ceri |
2010-09-14 12:42 |
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