The Oboe BBoard
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-03-22 22:59
The problem with extra top joints is the linkages - you have the link from RH1 to the Bb ad C as well as the G# pad cup, so the G# pad cup will have to be exactly the same height for the F#-G# linkage to work. If the G# pad is too thick on the extra top joint then this will make everything stop from G downwards (as it's holding RH1 open). If too low (if the G# pad is thin), then the F#-G# link won't be in adjustment.
The top joint main action venting should be the same in order the Bb and C pads both close and open fully, and that the linkage on the top joint has play beneath it when RH1 is down, also to be sure RH1 closes.
And the RH C-D trill lever and it's linkage on the extra top joint needs to have the same amount of play so the C-D trill pad isn't held open which will stop the oboe working altogether.
If getting an extra top joint, be sure it's fitted properly and regulated so you can interchange them without having to make mechanical adjustments each time you switch joints.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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EaubeauHorn |
2008-03-21 16:53 |
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Chris P |
2008-03-21 17:23 |
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ohsuzan |
2008-03-21 17:53 |
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johnt |
2008-03-21 18:19 |
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vboboe |
2008-03-21 19:12 |
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Old Oboe |
2008-03-22 04:05 |
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EaubeauHorn |
2008-03-22 16:10 |
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vboboe |
2008-03-22 17:53 |
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hautbois |
2008-03-22 20:07 |
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EaubeauHorn |
2008-03-23 14:40 |
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Chris P |
2008-03-22 22:59 |
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hautbois |
2008-03-23 01:07 |
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johnt |
2008-03-23 17:16 |
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EaubeauHorn |
2008-03-24 19:17 |
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jhoyla |
2008-03-23 18:07 |
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doublereeder2 |
2008-03-24 00:29 |
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Chris P |
2008-03-24 10:48 |
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vboboe |
2008-03-24 19:02 |
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mschmidt |
2008-03-24 21:30 |
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vboboe |
2008-03-25 02:14 |
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