Author: Craig Matovich
Date: 2007-05-13 13:19
If its a little sharp I would lengthen the back scrape a bit, even almost down to the thread.
And minimize the overlap. With reed soaked nudge the blades to close allignment and hold them there gently for a few seconds. I usually squeeze the reed sides together to open the tip first, then reverse the slip.
Sometimes a little plumbers teflon tape wrapped tightly on the thread and about 6 mm up on the cane will help hold the blades in place, and also can help open the tip a little. Both will help lower pitch.
(Check the deep scrape on the lower back on the reeds I sent. That is part of the key to the pitch for shorter reeds, and it adds warmth to the low range tone. You have to be careful to leave enough center spine.)
Another thing you can do with the mandrel inserted in the reed is to use pliers to open the tip. Pliers on top and bottom of the blades, about half-way down cane under the wrap... watch as you gently close the pliers and the tip will opena bit. This can ruin the staple for future use, but small careful changes can leave the staple in good shape.
All these things are for slight changes... a few cents. If you are talking about more than 20 cents and the reed is still 69 mm or longer, I'd clip ot back to 68.5 back the heart up and thin it overall, especially in the back/windows to lower the pitch.
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