Author: Loree BF51
Date: 2012-07-31 03:00
First of all, I’m right-handed. Also, I keep a tube that is similar to the one being tied on and I have a shortened ruler, so I can measure the overall length of the reed. If you’re using the same shape and tube type, after you’ve tied a few that don’t leak, you can then just do the placement of the cane on the tube, using the ruler for the proven length. When I place the soaked piece of cane on the tube, I hold the beveled ends of the cane against the tube, trying to get the sides to meet properly, upper and lower, as well as equally, side vs. side and also to be centered on the sides of the tube. The next step in tube technology imho, is to have raised ridges on the sides of the tube, not quite to the small end of the tube, so it is not necessary to remove the tube from the mandrel, after making the crossover thread, and sight through the big end of the tube to make sure that the two horizontal, axes of symmetry line up, as well as possible. (I wonder how many questions I’ll get about that little statement?!) I use FF thread and put 4 medium tension(?) turns, instead of 3, as this seems to be more stable, starting a few turns below the tube top. . Then, increasing the tension a little bit, I try to get the sides to start to close as evenly as possible and will stick a fingernail in the between the 2nd and 3rd turns in order to get the u/l and s-s edges, at the top of the thread, to match up. The fingernail poking is where the H-axes match seems to go off sometimes, so the cane may be need to be rotated a little, and then the finger-poking and reclosing of the blades needs to be redone. Then, when everything seems right, I increase the tension to a higher level and then rotate the mandrel, until the thread top, is just below the top of the tube, as verified by the “comp tube”, and then I put in the crossover turn, while keeping the “anchor” line very tight, also. Now, the top of the thread should be right at the top of the tube. If it’s less that ½ a thread over, I leave it, as I can move the crossover around to the right and behind, if necessary, and then the thread should be even with the top of the tube, with a little maneuvering. Then, with just enough tension on the anchor thread to keep it on the side of the tube, I wind down to near the top of the cork, but leave a little space between the bottom of the thread and the top of the cork, as this seems to make it easier to remove the reed from the oboe, which is a decided plus. I’m going to post this and see what happens. Regards.
R. Still former student
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