Author: RobinDesHautbois
Date: 2011-10-10 01:07
Please be careful of sophisticated terminology and complex scientific principles. It takes much more than Wikipedia or popular-science type articles to grasp them: otherwise, one must talk of "pseudo-science".
I do fully agree with J. where he writes about avoiding oil and controlling the temperature variances of the instrument. And I do agree with every bit of advice he gives above: do follow it!
BUT: temperature variances affects the expansion of the metal on the instrument whereas the lumber industry has many times proven that it does not affect wood. So it's the rings and screws that can put lots of stress on the wood.
HOWEVER, with temperature shifts in the atmosphere also usually come variances in atmospheric humidity: that's the killer for wood! In particular, slowly "warming-up" the instrument and gradually increasing the time played on it after purchase is mostly important to stabilize the wood's humidity. Blowing moist breath compared to more or less dry ambient air can be very stressful. Hence, a dampit in the oboe case is vital: discuss with your seller, local repairer and the Howarth directly how best to proceed with the dampit as the climate where you live will have a huge effect.
Also, dripping water (from condensed breath) leeches out properties from the wood... what we might call "drying it out". So, yes, swabbing it out often is vital. Oiling the bore will not prevent this as this wood has practically no absorption. But Laubin recommends treating the inside with spray furniture wax (applied with a feather) as a means to prevent direct contact of water with the wood.
Best of luck!
Robin Tropper
M.A.Sc., B.Mus., B.Ed.
http://RobinDesHautbois.blogspot.ca/music
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The Oboe BBoard
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