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Re: To buy or not to buy - part II

Author: Chris P
Date: 2009-08-08 22:51

On both services and overhauls, you only take the keys off but leave the pillars in situ as they should be screwed in nice and tight. If you do need to remove any pillars, make sure you do it carefully so the threads in the pillar holes don't get stripped - especially when putting them back in.

If there are loose pillars, then they'll have to be glued back in to tighten them up or the pillar hole will have to be bushed and the thread recut if the thread has completely stripped.

The biggest problem with plastic oboes is that when they get cold, the plastic shrinks in all directions and this can cause keys to bind between pillars, so some keys either remain closed or remain open once pressed. Keys with long barrels (eg. top joint trill and 2nd 8ve key and lower joint feather keys) are affected by this far more than keys mounted on shorter lengths of key barrel. The way to avoid this happening is to have a considerable amount of end play between the pillars and keys (relative to the key barrel length), and even more on plastic cors.

Wooden oboes are affected mostly by humidity, so joints will shrink or expand widthways causing cross mounted keys (eg. lower 8ve, F vent, Eb and low C# keys) to bind between the pillars, so these will need a small amount of sideways play to be sure they don't bind up..

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

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To buy or not to buy - part II new

joepie

2009-05-30 23:51