Author: vboboe
Date: 2006-08-08 19:57
... thanks for the blending tips :-)
... well, i've taken a closer look at my blends and all i can say is they appear taper graded, although some needed more cleaning out in the corner triangles, done that, responsiveness much freer than before, but perhaps overdid it a bit, seems too easy now
... i'm not having too much trouble getting responsiveness in the tips any more (knife technique much improved), can feel the tip blend vibrating comfortably enough
... it's the air resistance of all that wood in the hump / heart itself, about 67mm at apex, 65mm at tip corner to 62mm catch, all 5mm of thick wood down the middle and 3mm down the sides
... my teacher's instructions are to just remove shiny bark, not the white underbark and definitely not down to the yellow, wants maximum resistance there -- but it's too much wood for me, it doesn't vibrate
(Reed Law #1, it's got to vibrate)
(Reed Law #1A, it's got to vibrate for the student's weaker embouchure or air support, not the teacher's!)
... i've already experimented against teacher's instructions by taking off the white in the hump so it went down to the yellow, but this significantly reduces forte dynamic potential, back to square one there
... i'm experimenting now with changing the angle of the catch, it was straight across each quadrant, now i'm trying a steeper angle, parallel to the apex (which makes 3mm wide chevron for the hump, more like a bridge) some improvement but it's still a bit too hard yet
... next reed i'm going to try cutting the catch higher up at 63 mm (instead of 62mm) parallel to the apex (makes 2mm wide chevron for the hump) and then see if that'll vibrate easier
... can't imagine how long it'll take me, if ever, to vibrate a woody hump 7mm deep like shown p.76 Light's book
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