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Re: cotton vs. silk

Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-04-09 23:39

I usually drop the pullthrough down the assembled oboe from the bell to the top joint. Though I hold it upside down while doing this, holding onto the top joint so there's no danger of the joints coming adrift.

But in any case, pull it through s-l-o-w-l-y so the condensation has a chance to get absorbed into the pullthrough on it's way through the bore, and do this a couple of times at least before taking it apart and putting it away.

On plastic and oboes with metal lined sockets, you can just shake out the water that collects in the sockets, though do wipe them from time to time to remove grease that has collected on the socket walls - and use a piece of paper kitchen towel for this.

But on wooden oboes without socket linings, always dry the sockets with a piece of kitchen towel rather than using the pullthrough for this as it will get cork grease on it which will in turn build up in the bore and in toneholes.

The only time I take the top joint off to dry it separately is when it's cold and there's a lot of condensation in the bore, blocking up 8ve vents and toneholes. Clear the toneholes first (take the top joint off, shake it and then suck and blow the water out the toneholes by blocking the tenon end with one hand, closing and opening each waterlogged tonehole in turn with the left), then use the pullthrough to dry any remaining condensation sucked into the bore when you cleared the offending toneholes of their gurgles. I've never used cigarette paper to do this as it won't absorb any water that it's not in contact with.

And wash your pullthroughs from time to time, and lay them out flat to dry.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

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