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Re: Tieing length variables

Author: Craig Matovich
Date: 2007-01-07 00:15

I turn the mandel by hand with the thread wrapped maybe three times around the shaped cane and staple ( but not crossed over yet).

As you suggest, if the staple slips off the mandrel is is a bit 'violent'.

So, first my Glotin 46 mm staples fit very well and a bit snugly on my loree mandrel, right to the end of the mandrel. (Well, most of them do at least.)

And while winding, as long as I keep the thread perpendicular to the mandrel and staple, the violent slippage is not as likely to happen.

I do this wining technique as a variation of something I was taught back when. That was to do a few winds low on the shaped cane to form it to the mandel, then start over and wind higher.

It seemed a natural extension to start the winding midpoint and let it 'spiral' up the cane and staple as I turn the mandrel. Only real trick is getting a good estimation for initial cane placement and then go to finish in one pass, but also be willing to start over if its misjudged.

I attribute this technique to more even closing of sides, and a by product is seeing the cane turn either proves its aligned well or shows it 'out of balance' like a tire if it looses a balance weight.

I also get fewer split pieces in the tieing process. I soak until cane sinks...45 min to 1 hour, then shape, and finally place cane in my mouth to warm a minute before tieing. The last minute goes to tieing off thread, getting a staple onto the mandrel, repositioning my high-intensity light to its tieing position for better visibility.

I tie threaqd off on a handle half way between my navel and solar plexis so the pull to tighten the string is straight back from the tie off. I find that makes it more consistent and I get really tight wraps, almost to the point of snapping the string.

(Everything matters...or so it seems.)

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