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Re: Reed Tip Construction

Author: oboedrew
Date: 2009-09-24 21:35

Mark,

I take measurements of the length of my tips, but not of the thickness. From one piece of cane to another, there are variations in hardness, texture, and density. So I don't think measurements of thickness are useful. They can (and probably should) be different for each reed.

My reeds measure 68-69mm total. They're built on 47mm staples. I use a Rigotti -1 shape. The initial tie length is 72mm. The tip is 3-4mm of the total length. I start the tip at the 65mm point on the sides (measured from the bottom of the staple, that is). That means a 3mm tip on a 68mm reed, or a 4mm tip on a 69mm reed. If the reed ends up closer to 68mm but needs a longer tip, I move the tip backward toward the 64mm point on the sides. The slope of the tip is such that it is 1mm shorter in the center.

I believe it is a mistake to aim for certain measurements of thickness in any section of a reed. Better to scrape by feel. Having said that, the basic idea behind Cooper's diagrams is correct. The tip should taper horizontally and vertically. The thickest point on the tip should be the back of the center of the tip, just above the heart. The thinnest points on the tip should be the front corners. This dual taper is critical. It's pretty much a universal principle of reedmaking, applicable to all styles. I'll go so far as to state categorically that any reed lacking this dual taper is a bad reed. Of course, it's still possible to play well on a bad reed, and many oboists do. But it's inefficient. Better to work smart than hard.

In my experience, one of the most prevalent weakness of knife technique amongst reedmakers is difficulty in crafting a symmetrical and clearly defined drop-off from the heart to the tip. I'm not suggesting the drop-off should start and stop with a ninety degree angle. Rather, I believe it should be approached at the top and bottom by a gentle slope. But the drop-off itself should be quite steep. Such a transition from heart to tip works wonders for stability, especially in the high range. Certainly the most important part of a reed is the taper of the tip, but the second most important part is the balance of gradation vs definition where the heart drops off into the tip.

I can't give a ratio of tip length to heart length, because I do not define the back of the heart like the back of the tip. I blend the heart and windows together. There is no definite point where the windows end and the heart begins.

If I've described anything poorly, you can see a backlit pic of one of my reeds on the front page of my site. A picture paints a thousand words, right?

Cheers,
Drew

www.oboedrew.com

Post Edited (2009-09-24 21:39)

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