 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: oboesax
Date: 2010-12-15 22:33
For those of you who own professional-level oboes, do you also have a second oboe?
We're about to buy our daughter a new oboe, probably a Loree. I'm wondering whether or not to hold on to her current oboe (a Fossati) or instead sell it and buy a good plastic model. The second oboe would be for school, and perhaps to use when she plays in pit orchestras. My thought regarding using plastic is that it is cold in winter and often in the pit, and that plastic might play better in tune under these conditions.
Any suggestions?
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Author: OboeAgain
Date: 2010-12-16 00:27
Your plan makes great sense. Fox makes a number of very good plastic oboes.
Walter
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Author: cjwright
Date: 2010-12-16 00:37
I'd hate to have to go from a professional level oboe to a plastic fox, even if it was the 450 or 400. If you trust her to take care of the oboe at school, and you're that concerned about cracking, I'd recommend a plastic top joint oboe or an oboe with a plastic sleeve.
Blog, An Oboe In Paradise
Solo Oboe, Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra
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Author: oboesax
Date: 2010-12-16 03:05
Thanks for the responses. I trust my daughter to take care of her instruments, but I'm concerned about it at school, as is she, because of the other students. she switches off instruments during every concert and has to leave two instruments or so out in the band room while she's performing on another instrument. i was also wondering what doublers do when they're performing in a cold pit. i hadn't thought of the idea to just replace the top joint with a plastic joint.
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Author: Bryanwalker
Date: 2010-12-16 04:03
IF you can find an all plastic Loree from the 70's or 80's they are great. I recently played a friends oboe with the standard grenadilla top joint and an "aftermarket" plastic top joint by the same maker. I preferred the plastic top joint. The tone was actually "darker" and warmer. The opposite of what I expected.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-12-16 08:14
If you do opt for a plastic back-up oboe, then go for the Fox 300 as that'll have the same keywork specification as a Loree. Look for a used one as that will leave you with more money from the sale of the Fossati.
My main oboe is a kingwood-bodied Howarth S5, but I'd never play that outside, anywhere where it's most likely to be cold or take it abroad, so I bought and modified a plastic Selmer 104 oboe as my back-up oboe for this purpose and it does the job brilliantly. Modified in reaming out the bore with Howarth XL reamers and modifying the keywork so it's the same spec as a UK spec S5. I missed out on a used Fox 300 so went for the Selmer Signet Soloist instead as it was listed in the UK at a very good price.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: oboe_glenn
Date: 2010-12-16 11:44
I have a plastic Loree made in 1978. Shortly after I bought it I was subbing next to a very well known oboist who looked at my oboe, which is a bit shiny, and said "What the hell is that? Let met try it". His next words were "How much will you sell it for?"
As Bryan said, if you can find one from that era, they're great oboes. Everyone I know who tries mine is impressed and I'd like to buy another one. I've also tried Fox's that are very good.
Glenn
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-12-16 13:38
The only problem with the plastic Lorees is the plastic isn't anti-UV treated, so the surface will discolour with time and exposure to light - though that has no effect on the tone.
The plastic ones probably cost Loree more to produce themselves than wooden oboes as plastic isn't as easy to work as wood (the sale price to the end customer was probably the same as the equivalent grenadilla one) as well as the price of plastic rod which is more costly than the equivalent length grenadilla billet.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Old Oboe
Date: 2010-12-16 13:39
I play an oboe with a plastic top joint and no one knows unless I tell them. A good quality plastic oboe can sound great and be more durable in adverse weather conditions. Mine's a Rigoutat RIEC and it gets the job done,
Linda
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-12-16 14:24
The weakest area of any plastic oboe (and clarinet) or plastic or composite top joint is the middle tenon, so avoid any lateral pressure while assembled and use a heavy, sturdy stand to avoid them falling over. Never lay a plastic oboe on a plastic chair (or any oboe on any chair for that matter) where it's only supported at either end.
Don't have sword fights with them either.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2010-12-16 23:21
buying a metal stand with a wooden peg is DEFINITELY worth the investment in terms of cost. I have a lightweight clarinet stand and, while portable, don't know if I'd trust my wooden oboes on that...
I'd love a really good-sounding plastic oboe (or top joint for my Jarde); they can be pricey, so I think the advice about looking for older models is perfect.
GoodWinds
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Author: Old Oboe
Date: 2010-12-18 15:40
Chris! I loved the link. When I win the lottery I'll go for a jade oboe with gold keys!
Linda
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-12-18 16:00
I think lapis lazuli with silver or platinum plated keys (or unplated solid silver keys) will look pretty swish.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Ian White
Date: 2010-12-18 17:48
.... & I thought that rosewood & gold plated keys with mother of pearl inserts was rather OTT.
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Author: Bryanwalker
Date: 2010-12-30 04:21
I just saw this plastic Loree C series at RDG. These oboes don't come on the market too often...
http://www.rdgwoodwinds.com/loree-oboe-plastic-p-12237.html
p.s I have no affiliation with RDG or the seller of this oboe. I merely stumbled upon this listing.
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Author: Bryanwalker
Date: 2011-01-01 16:41
Cooper,
Trying to replace the Howarth already!?! I didn't even look at the serial number, I just saw the listing title "Loree c oboe"
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Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2011-01-01 17:22
How many oboes do some of you have??? I've two and wouldn't mind adding a plastic-topped one but I can't imagine having/wanting/needing more. (no response required, I'm just curious)
GoodWinds
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Author: ohsuzan
Date: 2011-01-01 17:54
I have two, including one of the all-plastic Lorees (H series) that seem to be the object of covetousness here.
I didn't know it was a hot commodity when I got it -- I just wanted a good oboe that wouldn't crack (having at the time cracked my Covey in a cold pit).
I toy with selling it every once in a while, but it seems like I have never quite come to that point. I guess my question to myself is, "OK, then what?", because I do think it is a good idea to have two decent oboes available.
I just don't know what other oboe I would choose to pair with the Covey. The Loree really isn't a good match for it, reedwise or feel-wise. Someone suggested I try one of the newer Marigaux.
Any ideas?
Susan
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Author: ohsuzan
Date: 2011-01-02 04:52
Right, Cooper! (Cooper, right/Wright?) Except, of course, the person who sold it to me asked for right of first refusal if I ever wanted to sell it. But that was a while ago. They've probably moved on by now.
And yeah, I would love to try a Hiniker. As if! I should live that long!
But I did get to play an N-series Loree briefly last Summer, and I liked it a lot. It had what I would characterize as a more fluid, "singing" tone than I had expected.
However, the (professional) oboist who owns it is also quite attached to it , since it was hand-selected for her by Mr. Woodhams, so it won't be for sale any time soon!
So, there you go. No good answers. But I am glad I have two nice oboes.
Susan
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