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 RE: Bore Oil
Author: L. Omar Henderson 
Date:   2002-12-19 12:43

I'll second the non-use of peanut oil both for the good of the wood, the player. and surrounding bystanders. Actually there is a body of evidence indicating that modern processing techniques for peanut products preserves the natural aflotoxins found on stored nuts and grain products and it is these mold (a generic) related byproducts that are the actual allergens, but the severe allergic reactions are the same.

The purpose of bore oil is "controlled" moisture absorption and desorption of water. The oil used to treat the wood before manufacture is plant derived and probably aids most in the machining processes - although modern mixed carbide and diamond milling tools probably would be dulled to the extent that older tool steel tools were. The oil also aids in heat dissipation and lessening the heat build up in the grenadilla wood blank being transformed into the instrument. Aside from the milling steps the oil used to impregnate the wood prior to manufacture aids in the stabilization of the wood and adds a tad more ability of the wood to relieve stresses caused by heat and structural alterations (taking away wood) during manufacture.

The plant oil also controls the moisture level within the wood by tightly combining with water in shells of ever less bound water. The shells closest to the core of the oil molecule being held by chemical bonding which is very strong while the outer shells are held by less strong chemical bonds (hydrogen bonding). When people say bore oil waterproofs the wood of the bore - actually when using plant derived oils you are controlling the moisture content. Water is still absorbed and desorbed but very little water is absorbed by wood with the proper oil content because the inner shells of water surrounding the oil molecule are filled and little additional water is added or lost. The active process of adding and loosing water is an important part of stabilizing the wood and potentially avoiding structural changes due to rapid absorption or desorption of water in the wood.

The moisture in the bore of the instrument is not actually siliva but a more pure form of water vapor from our lungs that we blow in with the air to make music - this is good, and better for the wood than the composition of siliva.


The plant oil present in the wood used in manufacture is lost over time (washed out and swabbed out). Plant oils due to their wonderful characteristics will combine with water due to their unique molecular structure - while petroleum oils will not. Wood without the proper oil content will gain water much more quickly (although with the very dense character of grenadilla wood this process is blunted to some degree) because the plant oil buffers this water absorption due to the shells of water already discussed. A well oiled (conditioned with the proper amount of oil) will appear to shed water but actually the wood has enough moisture and needs no more. Waterproofing the wood is not a good practice because it disrupts this homeostasis of water balance within the wood. Areas which are not completely waterproof (like holes in your rain tarp) will absorb large quantities of water and dry out much more quickly than wood that is evenly conditioned with oil to gain and loose moisture slowly. These rapid gains and losses of water can lead to structural and dimensional changes in the wood that can add to stressors that cause wood to fracture - crack.

Each piece of wood in a musical instrument - and you have one different piece each for the barrel, upper joint, lower joint, and bell has different graining patterns, different density and structure, different abilities to hold oil, and different stress patterns within the wood. One should carefully inspect each piece to determine if it appears to soak up moisture to a different extent than it's neighbors. The oil needs (some pieces gain or loose oil and water to diffferent extents) of each segment should be assessed and attended to - in possibly different degrees of oiling. Your instrument is a wonderful blend of these different pieces of wood and that is one reason (too many others to count) that each instrument is unique.
Best Holidays to all. The Doctor

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 Topics Author  Date
 Bore Oil  new
Morrigan 2002-12-18 12:38 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
mario 2002-12-18 12:51 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Forest Aten 2002-12-18 13:00 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Hank 2002-12-18 13:02 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
mario 2002-12-18 13:28 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Mark Charette, Webmaster 2002-12-18 15:52 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Mark Charette 2002-12-19 02:10 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
clare 2002-12-18 19:06 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Morrigan 2002-12-18 22:17 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Karel 2002-12-19 01:52 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Mark P. Jasuta 2002-12-19 02:58 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Mark Charette 2002-12-19 03:08 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
mario 2002-12-19 07:55 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
L. Omar Henderson 2002-12-19 12:43 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
beejay 2006-07-24 21:55 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Bob 2002-12-19 13:43 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
JMcAulay 2002-12-19 17:41 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Morrigan 2002-12-20 11:10 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Gordon (NZ) 2002-12-22 12:37 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Hans 2002-12-26 01:00 
 RE: Bore Oil  new
Malaya 2002-12-26 05:46 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
Bruno 2006-07-24 22:10 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
L. Omar Henderson 2006-07-24 23:37 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
FDF 2006-07-25 00:06 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
L. Omar Henderson 2006-07-25 00:38 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
FDF 2006-07-25 00:55 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
hans 2006-07-25 02:45 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
L. Omar Henderson 2006-07-25 03:18 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
beejay 2006-07-25 09:20 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
Gordon (NZ) 2006-07-25 09:42 
 Re: Bore Oil  new
BobD 2006-07-25 17:48 


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