 The Oboe BBoard
|
Author: claire70
Date: 2007-12-13 19:16
I really hope someone can help me...!
I got my oboe out to practise tonight, and something has gone weird. Basically the RH little finger keys don't seem to be acting properly any more. They go down but they don't go up again. The C-sharp is particularly bad, the E-flat and the C are doing it too, though. I spent some time trying to tweak things with a screwdriver (though I admit I don't really know what I'm doing there), and it didn't help much - I think it improved the C action slightly, but it's still not great.
This oboe is less than 3 months old, so I'm not too happy! The only reason I can think for this is happening is the last time I played it, a couple of days ago, was at a rehearsal - when I arrived, I left my case (with oboe it) on a chair, and someone knocked it onto the floor. I didn't *notice* anything wrong with the oboe during that rehearsal, but maybe I just happened not to play those notes! That's the only thing I can put it down to at the moment. That, or cold weather?!
It's a Marigaux dual-system, if that's any help.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bobo
Date: 2007-12-13 19:57
when keys go down and don't come back up, i usually suspect the springs may have gotten knocked out of position..either that or the keys are binding due to having been bent by the impact. it could be the weather: sometimes the keys will bind due to the shrinking of the wood relative to the posts. sounds like you need a repair person to look at it. folks, never ever leave your oboe in a place where it can be knocked over or fall..at worst, I put it in the case and then that goes under the chair and that's extremely rare..i usually take the whole thing with me everywhere in the case. it may be unusually paranoid, but otherwise something bad is bound to happen. also, never use those plastic portable stands..they're an accident waiting to happen. get a good stand with a heavy metal base.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ohsuzan
Date: 2007-12-13 19:58
Something very similar to this happened to my oboe when I dropped it last summer. In my case, it was one of the rods down beneath the RH pinkie group that was a little pushed out of position. I was able to fix it -- at least, make it playable -- by taking that particular rod mechanism off, which freed up the jammed keys, and then putting it back together again. I didn't actually re-bend the rod -- taking it apart just freed it up, and I was able to put it back together all right.
Don't know if that is what is happening here. But look closely down along the rods beneath the pinkie mechanism, and see if you can see any binding or any distortion.
Susan
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: johnt
Date: 2007-12-13 21:54
The wooden oboe peg marketed by Gary Armstrong in Toronto is very nice, a large platform which is very solid. The top of the peg extends up to the top of the mortise joint of the bell. I agree, the plastic foldables are chintzy evil things, not fit to support as noble an instrument as the oboe.
www.garyarmstrong.com
Best,
john
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2007-12-13 23:14
This usually happens when the RH Eb key gets bent - the Eb key is loose on the C# steel so it should spin freely on it's own without affecting the C# key, but when it gets bent it will bind against the steel passing through.
It's easy enough for an experienced tech to sort out if the hinge tube for the Eb key is slightly bent without the steel being bent, but if it's a seroius bend (with both the Eb key tube and the steel being bent), it'll all have to come apart, the steel straightened and the Eb key tube straightened so it doesn't bind.
Another thing that can result from the RH Eb key being knocked is one the pillars (usually the one by the C# head) may have turned slightly so they're not square on with the end of the C# key - the C# key can bind against the pillar face when pressed (and also the point screw will be at a funny angle in the end of the steel) and not return until the Eb key is pressed. The pillars will have to be removed and reset so they're tight when in their correct position.
But it's not a serious problem, and one that's relatively easy to sort out provided your tech knows what to do.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2007-12-16 07:27)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: claire70
Date: 2007-12-14 06:43
Thanks for the answers, it's reassuring to hear that it's fixable. Chris, I suspect you're right that it's something to do with the E-flat key, as the E-flat and C keys are knocking against each other slightly now, which I'm sure they weren't before.
Will call my friendly repair man this morning, and hope he can look at it soon. I'm missing playing my lovely oboe! :-(
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: doublereeder2
Date: 2007-12-15 23:02
I also think it sounds like the RH Eb/Db rod is bent and the keys are bent. They should not hit each other. I see that in my student's oboes sometimes but it is easy for the repair guy to fix.
It is too bad that your fellow musicians at rehearsal were not paying attention to the fact that your case was on your chair. And it is quite cowardly for the person who knocked it off not to tell you! Just don't leave it on the chair with a bunch of students around.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: claire70
Date: 2007-12-16 16:29
> I also think it sounds like the RH Eb/Db rod is bent and the
> keys are bent. They should not hit each other. I see that in
> my student's oboes sometimes but it is easy for the repair guy
> to fix.
Fixed now! :-) My repair man fixed it super-quick, so I was very pleased, and it didn't cost me too much either. You're right, it was something bent around the Eb key area.
> It is too bad that your fellow musicians at rehearsal were not
> paying attention to the fact that your case was on your chair.
> And it is quite cowardly for the person who knocked it off not
> to tell you! Just don't leave it on the chair with a bunch of
> students around.
Yep, definitely learnt my lesson there... I naively thought that people would be careful.... I'm not sure she even noticed she had done it!!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: claire70
Date: 2007-12-31 15:50
Gaaaahhhh..... It's gone crazy again :-( :-( :-(
Slightly different to last time: now, the C# key is *sometimes* fine if you play a D-C# trill, but sometimes it stays up, and doesn't go down properly again. (So opposite to last time, which was down but not up!). It also doesn't go down if you try to do a banana-key-C to C#, or left-hand D# to C# trill.
And it hasn't been pushed onto the floor this time either. The only thing I've done to it that isn't playing has been cleaning the silverwork with a cloth (and I'm not *that* energetic when I do that...)
Any ideas? Or is it yet another trip to the repair man? :-(
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2007-12-31 16:15
Check the cork on the small lug soldered to the C# cup - if this has worn through (which is very likely) it could be causing the adjusting screw on the end of the C# overlever (the bit that arches over the low B key barrel) to foul so it remains open. The adjusting screw could also have a burr or a square tip, or if the tip isn't showing, the end of the adjusting screw pip could be catching - as it's got an internal thread, the end could be sharp and digging into the cork on the C# pad cup.
Or the C# touch spring could be weak, or the C# cup spring could be heavy.
Are you competent to taking the C# key off? This is the last key that goes on and is relatively easy to remove, but remember to disengage the springs before removing the C#/Eb keys, and replacing the springs afterwards without altering the tension (and oiling the ends of the steel before putting it back).
Remove the lower point screw securing the C#/Eb touches, hold the Eb pad open (pressing the adjusting screw end to open it) and then ease the C#/Eb keys off (they're both pinned to the same steel so they won't fall apart), and check the Eb key spins freely on the steel. Check the pillars as well making sure they're square on with each other. While the keys are off, check the condition of the tip of the adjusting screw on the end of the C# overlever and the condition of the cork on the C# pad as well.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: doublereeder2
Date: 2007-12-31 20:52
Oh rats!! Maybe one of the posts has turned a little bit. What did your repair guy say it was last time?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: vboboe
Date: 2007-12-31 21:32
... in all of above postings, after the bent stuff was fixed, and silver-cloth polishing, there isn't any mention of having done any key oiling, not bouncing back up or getting stuck going down is also something a little key oil might fix, and with an oboe 'only' 3+ mos old, it should've been anointed at least once by now
-- if/when springs and rods and key placements and other things are all right, check for any screws working loose this time, this can misalign parts of the mechanism and bind it up
-- the sticky parts may be in any of the many moving joints in the C#-Eb lower mechanical assembly, not just the C# rod itself, and with the banana key on your instrument, you'd have to check out all the other interlinked moving parts there too
after silver cloth polishing it's always a good idea to do a complete key oiling as well, and wipe all keys with the oil rag after, the fine film of * key oil * smeared over the newly polished keys is protective as well as helpful for pinky slides, and of course all the keys bounce freely with lubed delight
try that anyway, see if key-oiling frees up the problem keys for you, remember to do key-oiling lightly with a toothpick applicator, no drops leaking underside to pads !
NO use general household oil, that's too thick and sticky for use as instrument key oil and will gum everything up and i'm uncertain if sewing machine oil is a good substitute ... it's maybe possible that the problem key mechanism already is gummy ... ? Even projectile splashes of spilled soft drink beverages can leave a sticky residue to gum things up
Don't get too frantic, new oboes always need some tweaking in their first 12-18 months, although the accidental fall certainly has certainly caused you more worry than usual
If you can find a copy of this older text, there was a very helpful introductory booklet by Earl Clemens on how to look after your oboe generally (although the turkey feather concept is generally passe nowadays)
but alas, of all the method and music books in my collection, that particular booklet eludes my search as i can't recall the exact longish title, anyway, it's mostly text & illustrations of author demonstrating various things and with some scales and exercises in the back, royal blue cover, please, can somebody else can quote title verbatim?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: claire70
Date: 2008-01-01 09:18
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm not sure I feel competent to take things apart so it might be another trip to the repair man or Howarths tomorrow....
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-01-01 11:46
To be on the safe side, it's probably best left to a repairer rather than taking it to bits yourself just in case you invalidate the warranty.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: claire70
Date: 2008-01-01 18:37
And today, probably thanks to me trying to tweak a few screws yesterday, it's got even worse... Now it feels like half the notes are not coming out properly - low C is not coming out at all, D and F are weird, even Ab is weird?! *sigh*
Don't worry about posting any suggestions, I obviously am not capable of sorting anything so it's off to the repairers again! Am seriously considering taking some kind of oboe-maintenance course - anyone know where I can do one in the London area?
Post Edited (2008-01-01 18:39)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-01-01 19:44
The only full and part time City&Guilds courses are at Merton Tech (just off the A24), though they tend to concentrate more on flutes and clarinets (as that's what most people are likely to encounter). But that's a two or three year course (or one year part-time if they still do part-time).
But do ask if instead of waiting around twiddling your thumbs for your oboe to be fixed, if it's possible for you to make an appointment to actually sit in and watch as it's being fixed.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
