Author: ohsuzan
Date: 2012-01-16 16:42
I used to do just what johnt suggests, until last summer when, setting up for an early-am public practice, I absent-mindedly reached for my cup of coffee (forgetting that the top joint of my oboe was under that same arm).
The results were not pretty, even though it fell just a couple of feet onto a carpeted surface. Bent the rod that holds all the top-joint keys. I had to borrow an oboe for the performance (since I was already using my backup, owing to the fact that my primary had cracked -- again -- earlier in the month). It was another 6 weeks before I had both my oboes back and working again.
Peter Perret, whose lovely older Jarde oboe I borrowed, told me that his routine is to warm the outside of the oboe in his hands, and blow gently down the bore (without a reed) until a drip line is established. Once the drip line is established, the theory is that the water will follow it, and not wander off into the trill keys or half-hole or octave vent.
That works pretty well. What also works just wonders for me is something I read on another thread on this board, from Peter Hurd, and that is to use Woodwind-All in the octave vents, trills, and other keys that tend to take on water.
I had heard of this technique long ago, but hesitated to try it -- didn't want to make matters worse. But I figured if Peter Hurd does it, I could safely try! And it works a charm. The water avoids those keys like the plague now. I haven't had water in the treated keys at all ever since. Thanks, both Peters!
Susan
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