 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2011-03-22 12:00
My overlap is now so small it is almost invisible - I would say less than 1/10th mm. Anyone examining my reeds would think there is no overlap, but it is there nonetheless.
For me, the main purpose of the overlap is to ensure it doesn't go the wrong way. As Cooper pointed out, there is a torque - a "slipping force" - that is applied to the narrow cane-ends as you wrap. Think of winding those first three wraps in slow-motion to understand where it comes from.
As the thread comes down tight, it pushes against one edge of cane before it pushes against the other edge of the same blade, and if there is no counter-force it can push the blades out of true. If there is an overlap, the push will simply force the far-edge tighter against the other blade, forming a tighter seal. only the tiniest overlap is necessary.
Obviously after the cross-over, wrapping further down the staple has progressively less effect on the actual reed, though it is far more aesthetically pleasing to wrap to the top of the cork. You probably don't need more than about six or seven wraps in all to make a functional reed.
Robin - according to your blog you are now trying the reed-guide which should have exactly the same effect - keeping the blades in the correct position and preventing them from slipping while winding. I wrap my shaped, folded cane with cling-film/saran-wrap for the same effect. Let us know how effective the device is?
J.
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HautboisJJ |
2011-03-13 10:50 |
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johnt |
2011-03-13 15:42 |
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cjwright |
2011-03-13 17:00 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2011-03-21 19:38 |
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HautboisJJ |
2011-03-21 20:44 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2011-03-21 20:56 |
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Re: Learning to overlap new |
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jhoyla |
2011-03-22 12:00 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2011-03-22 13:04 |
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The Clarinet Pages
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