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Re: b-flat problem

Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-07-28 21:39

The venting on RH 2 and 3 should be a minimum of 2mm to a maximum of 2.2mm and this will determine the height of the F# vent.

The RH 1 fingerplate venting is determined by the venting of the LH fingerplates which should be set at a minimum of 2mm and maximum of 2.1mm, though because of the linkage involved in opening the Bb and C keys and also taking into the account of the much needed (though not excessive) free play between the linkage to be certain the top joint Bb and C pads are closed while RH1 is open, and also that the Bb and C pads fully open when RH1 is closed, RH1 will usually have more venting than the other RH fingerplates. Check this is so, as reduced venting on RH1 will mean flat (or 'saggy'), stuffy and unstable Gs as well as diminished venting on Bb and C.

Play C-Bb slowly and with the lightest finger pressure. If you feel any double action when you close LH2 (you'll feel it making contact with the C key immediately after slowly lowering LH2), that means the Bb and C pads aren't opening enough which is due to the reduced venting of RH1 and the closed action not providing enough travel to open the Bb and C pads to their full extent.

And while RH1 is closed, press the upper end of the linkage bar on the top joint (the 'con bar') to see if the Bb and C keys rise further still (and to their full extent once the adjusting screw from the Bb makes contact with LH3).

Also check the seating of the RH1 pad with the finest cigarette paper - if it's very light or not closing at the back it could mean the key or pad cup has been bent inwards. And check the linkage from RH1 to the G# pad cup (as though playing an F#-G# trill) - if the G# pad opens while RH1 is closed, this could also mean the pad cup has been bent downwards - test it by placing the cigarette paper between the adjusting screw on the linkage arm and the G# pad cup and close RH1, then gently pull the paper to check for resistance.

If there is a problem here, you should ideally seek an oboe specialist to have this sorted out as they will know how to set up the mechanism to ensure RH1 has the correct venting and the correct amount of free play in the linkage, and to be sure all the linkages and adjustments are set up well.

The cork on the underside of the RH1 key foot/linkage should be really thin, but sometimes I've seen oboes come back from being serviced by general woodwind repairers who don't fully understand the intricacies of the mechanism (and F vents that spring open when RH3 is closed making the low notes from Eb downwards unreliable).

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

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