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Re: applying bore oil

Author: ClaV
Date: 2015-02-24 19:52

Jamnik wrote:

> Theoretically you should want to keep the wood the way it was
> moisture and oil wise as when it was bored and the tone holes
> cut. Unfortunately we don't receive this "report" with a new
> instrument. More or less oil and moisture will play a tiny to
> rather large difference in original specs to current
> conditions. Hence, a cracked instrument. Something was not
> kept constant or changed too rapidly. This opens a whole new
> argument. Was the crack due to increased or lack of
> oil/moisture, introducing it too quickly, or too rapid of temp
> change in the wood? It could most likely be a combination
> also. It is my opinion that oil acts twofold in protecting the
> wood and slowing the absorption or dispersement of moisture.
> When I disassemble a clarinet completely (minus pillars and
> springs), I use a Q-tip with a drop of oil to clean all the
> tone holes. You should see some of the lovely scale these
> sometimes have to offer and I'm not talking about tone hole
> putty for tuning purposes! One day I will fix my crystal ball
> so that I will know the precise truth about oiling!

How I think of the oil action and wood cracks (based on chemistry knowlewdge and experience) is that wood is composed of cellulose fibers that are hydrophilic.
Fibers run predominantly in one direction that makes wood anisotropic. Since cellulose fibers are hydrophilic, wood retains some level of moisture depending on humidity.
So the humidity (and to lesser extent temperature) changes causes changes in fiber hydration and resulting contraction/expansion between the fibers that is the underlying cause of stresses and cracking.
Sudden dry spells, such as coming with cold weather, are especially stressful.
I see oil application working as penetrating microcracks upon drying (and reducing drying as well) and thus minimizing stresses upon drying.
Using more hydrophilic (e.g. natural) oils may be a good idea. Having/adding some wax compounds may be a good idea as well, if uniform application can be assured. The oily resin of cocobolo wood definitely contains some waxy fractions. Wax can seal microcracks on a more permanent basis. Along the lines of more hydrophilic oils - castor oil may work well. Many variables! Also to keep in mind is that many manufacturers treat the wood under the pressure adding different sealants, preservatives, dyes.
Thinking of all this underlying complexity, I just use mineral oil as less interfering. True, it penetrates less. It is then also least likely to leach/extract anything and react with anything. Mineral oil wil just physically fill microcracks. It will be washed away relatively fast but then one can always apply more, as needed

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Date

applying bore oil new

yaseungkim

2015-02-15 09:09