Author: jhoyla
Date: 2016-11-17 11:58
Reed resistance is not always a function of tip thickness. In fact, in extreme cases a very thin tip can be more resistant than a tip with a bit of stiffness. The tendency of extremely thin tips to close up can prevent them from taking enough wind.
I find that the two main factors that influence reed resistance are:
1. The overall balance of the scrape
2. The opening at the tip.
Balance is an art. While there are all sorts of rules - I invite everyone to chip in here - I find that the evenness and symmetry of the scrape, and its overall proprtions front-to-back and side-to-side dictate largely the ease of play. An uneven scrape, an asymmetrical scrape or a tip-heavy scrape will be unlikely to play with ease. Extending the back and dusting the sides of the heart can loosen up a reed, but be sure to dust, not scrape, with a sharp knife (always).
Regarding the tip opening, both too closed and too open will cause the reed to be resistant - too closed because it won't accept air, too open because it is struggling to vibrate. Tip opening is a function of cane hardness, staple geometry, thread tension and accuracy, gouge, shape and scrape - in that order, more or less. There are descriptions (even vids) online on how to squeeze down a stiff reed, but be careful - you can easily crack your reed, and once it has lost its resilience your only recourse is to clip and re-balance.
I am not a big believer in wire, but some people swear by it. Occasionally I will wire a reed for a day, play it in and then remove the wire - this is surprisingly effective.
Perhaps your first investment should be in a shaper - order cane shaped on different shapers and try making reeds until you find the shape you like, and don't be surprised if it turns out to be wider than you are used to. Wide shapes are often easier to play and are definitely easier to adjust.
Hope this helps,
J.
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