 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2013-09-29 08:28
Rachel's comments are also correct, especially wrt. the difference in gouge for short-scrape and long-scrape reeds.
Short-scrape reeds have a lot of structural stability because so much of the bark is left untouched. Long-scrape reeds need slightly thicker sides so that the rails can support the structure all the way through the heart.
Martin Schuring explains this very clearly in Linda Walsh's reed-making DVD (he always explains things extremely clearly).
Also, note that cane is harder and denser close to the bark, and softer the further in you scrape. The extreme tip is always going to be created from the innermost (i.e., the softest) fibers. Consequently, cane that is gouged thinner will have a slightly harder tip (esp. in the corners) than cane that is scraped thicker, and vice versa. (I have a scientific article that verifies this under a microscope, but I can't find the reference right now).
Finding the perfect gouge for a given hardness of cane, with the correct balance between sides and spine, is where the black-art comes in. Lighting a beeswax candle under a gibbous moon is rumored to help .. 
J.
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mjfoboe |
2013-09-25 22:43 |
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cjwright |
2013-09-26 09:09 |
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mjfoboe |
2013-09-26 13:44 |
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JMarzluf |
2013-09-26 18:56 |
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mjfoboe |
2013-09-26 20:14 |
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WoodwindOz |
2013-09-27 00:12 |
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mjfoboe |
2013-09-27 00:56 |
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WoodwindOz |
2013-09-27 01:51 |
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JMarzluf |
2013-09-28 05:06 |
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cjwright |
2013-09-28 13:32 |
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mjfoboe |
2013-09-28 16:01 |
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jhoyla |
2013-09-29 08:28 |
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mjfoboe |
2013-09-29 15:31 |
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JMarzluf |
2013-09-29 23:30 |
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jhoyla |
2013-09-30 06:32 |
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The Clarinet Pages
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