The Oboe BBoard

Re: Reed Tying - Pitch stability

Author: Oboe Craig  Date:   2011-04-03 22:38 I prefer a slight overlap when tying on the cane. I tie to close, meaning sides close about 1/2 to 1 wrap before the tube end. I do not tie to length because I find differing diameters of cane act differently, and I get better and more consistent stability doing it this way. When tying, I start 5-7 thread widths short of the staple's top end (usually FF thread) wind a few turns, then ensure cane alignment on the staple. Then I wind the thread up by turning the mandrel backwards in my left hand. This motion literally screws the thread up the cane, and closes its sides slowly in a manner easy to observe. And this technique tends to prevent cracks while tying. I apply more tension, already pretty tight from the start as I progress up the tube using the screwing motion. Once happy with the alignment and closure, and slight overlap, I reverse directions, cross over and wind thread down to the cork, keeping very tight tension on the thread. Tight almost to the breaking point. If I tie more than 6 reeds a day, the thread will cut into my fingers. I mean really tight. Tight in 2 ways. Pulled tight from the thread anchor on a desk drawer handle with my left mandrel hand (drawer secured from below by my knee) and ensuring the entire arc of thread wrapping the reed remains equally as tight throughout the winding process. I test that by plucking the thread like a guitar string a few times as I wind. (I'd have to check to see the length and pitch for sure, but its a high tone.) Since I started doing this, my pitch stability, tip opening, etc., have improved dramatically. My 2.5 - 3 cents worth...:) Addendum: I always do a rough tip scrape and open the cane immediately after tying. I almost always do a light scrape of the back first, back through heart and tip as one minimal level of scrape, then thin the tip, clip it open and set the offset by slipping the blade. It produces a slight click when the reed's blades slip to the offset. Later, the blades can be nudged to more slipped or less slipped positions. Young reeds tend to a bit flat on low d's and below and a little more slip helps. Later they close down and come up in pitch. Then reducing the overlap settles down the pitch and usually improves the overall tone. Increased overlap nudges happen close to the staple's top and a little goes a long way. Reduced overlap nudges happen a little higher, below mid-length of the reed and resemble replacinging a water bottle's top 1/4 turn. A gentle massaging motion and followed by a mid reed squeeze on the sides of the reed to make the tip opening yawn and then relax again. Post Edited (2011-04-04 02:28)

Topics	Author	Date
Reed Tying - Pitch stability  new	mjfoboe	2011-04-03 11:33
Re: Reed Tying - Pitch stability  new	RobinDesHautbois	2011-04-03 12:46
Re: Reed Tying - Pitch stability  new	GoodWinds	2011-04-03 14:44
Re: Reed Tying - Pitch stability  new	Oboe Craig	2011-04-03 22:38
Re: Reed Tying - Pitch stability  new	myoboe	2011-04-04 12:16
Re: Reed Tying - Pitch stability  new	GoodWinds	2011-04-04 16:02
Re: Reed Tying - Pitch stability  new	Oboe Craig	2011-04-04 17:37

Avail. Forums  |  Need a Login? Register Here

User Login  User Name:  Password:  Remember my login:

Forgot Your Password? Enter your email address or user name below and a new password will be sent to the email address associated with your profile.