 The Oboe BBoard
|
Author: HautboisJJ
Date: 2010-10-10 08:29
Greetings teachers, friends and colleagues. I am requesting for your help to complete a small survey that i am conducting to seek some, hopefully, truthful and honest comments on regards to oboes made and sold today. It is very likely that someone who is now reading this realizes and understands to a certain extend the agony of a budding student who is not able to try all brands and models of oboes available in the market today (especially those who are not living in the big cities and studying with a famous teacher).
Worst is when, with a tight budget, the struggling student then pays for an instrument that at the end of the day does not accomplish what he/she expects not because of an inferior instrument, but a lack of understanding in what are the general characteristics of playing that are necessary to make that particular instrument work at personal level. We all understand it is not a matter of laziness or lacking in the spirit to experiment, but limited resources prevent from the possibility of a student to even attempt such a thing (Professionals i have spoken to face the very same problem). Talent is perhaps another factor, but at this moment too many variables (reeds, technique, oboes, environment etc.) already exist for students to have time to consider such subjective issues.
Therefore, i invite you write to me in an objective way, regardless of your position or level of playing (and even remain anonymous if you feel the need to). For the purpose of this survey please include the following items:
1) Your age and country which you live/work/study in.
2) Your profession (e.g. oboe teacher, principal oboe in orchestra, music student etc).
3) Your brand of instrument, model, and the number of years you have played it (be it 1st or 2nd hand). Is this brand a popular one in your region?
4) The pitch that you play in your country/region (e.g. a = 440, 442 etc).
5) The basic characteristics of your reeds. Do you produce them yourself? If not, are they from a reputable maker or a teacher/professional who tries them on the same instrument as you? Are they long or short scrape? What is the length of your reeds corresponding to your pitch necessities? (e.g. i play 440 and my reeds are 72 mm) Detailed description on the materials used for the reeds are not required but encouraged (as this is more a survey of instruments not reed styles).
6) Why you bought your current oboe(s). Did you buy your oboe from retailers or direct from the factories (or others)? Were you able to try your oboe before you bought it? Or did someone else try it for you?
7) Did your instrument fulfill your expectations? Please elaborate/state why (e.g. cracking, inferior mechanism, wonderful intonation etc).
8) And finally, do you intend to try a different brand/model in the future? Please elaborate/state which and why (e.g. fed up, curiosity, famous players using etc).
You can send me your replies via Facebook or email me at: hautboisjj@gmail.com. Thank you for taking the your time to read this. This survey not affiliated in any way to any exterior organization, company or person(s) and is solely intended for my private usage (Nor will it be ever used for commercial purposes). Again, if you feel a need to reply but wishes to remain anonymous you can do so. Any sort of reply will be very much appreciated.
Regards,
Howard, Ng Su Chee, Malaysia
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Bryanwalker
Date: 2010-10-10 15:44
1) 19 Newark, De USA
2) Currently a student at the University of Delaware.
3) Howarth XL 5543 Grenadilla. Formerly owned by Richard Woodhams, I bought the oboe 6 months ago.
4) 440 and 442. I play in 2 different orchestras requiring two different pitches... I know a nightmare. But to tell a secret. I tune the 442 orchestra low...
5) I make my own reeds. I am currently doing alot of experimenting with different staples, but generally my reeds are about 70mm long. Stevens 2's work well with the XL but I find the opening of the staples are too big, so I have trouble getting the reeds to seal using a Brannen X shape.
6) I was playing in a masterclass for Joe Robinson and the guys from howarth were there exhibiting oboes. I picked this one off the table and they told me Woodhams played it for 6 months, so of course I was interested in it. After I howarth let me try it for about 3 weeks, I fell in love and sent them a check.
7) This oboe has fulfilled my expectations to the highest level. The oboe is one of the most free blowing instruments I have every played. The sound is full, yet clear! The Mechanism is ergonomically very comfortable. Intonation is spot on and you can really feel how even the oboe is when you play it. The best thing about the Howarths, the C#'s are not stuffy or hissy sounding, they are crystal clear. Oh, and they are up to pitch... Try that with a Loree...
8) I will most undoubtedly try other brands in the future, I am always looking for something better. Currently I fed-up with Loree. I played a Loree for 5 years before getting this oboe. I find the vast majority of Loree's stuffy and resistant and the tone is shallow and cloudy. I have recently let 3 players, who play Loree, try my oboe. They all expressed my oboe was sensational and expressed how much they want a Howarth.
If any of you have additional questions or would like to know my. Email me at Bmwski0507@aol.com
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2010-10-10 22:29
I hope youre survey yields the results you need.
1. 49 yrs, USA (West Coast)
2. nurse, amateur musician and occasional 'sub' for professional oboists; I've played for 31 years.
3. I've 2 oboes: (a) a 1970s Gordet, made in Germany, I bought used in 2002; no cracks, use it for symphony and
(b) a circa 1930s Jarde, cracked and well-pinned, bought used in 2008, use it for pit orchestra (esp outdoors) and small ensemble work
4. 440
5. I aim to make reeds 70 mm or longer but they end up 68-70 mm usually; I use an American scrape (Tabuteau, Light) and Glotin cane, when I can get it. Prefer medium width to narrow shape, use brass staples mostly.
6. I bought the Gordet after taking 7 years 'off' living overseas, liked the solid sound; I bought the Jarde as a second instrument, it was more light-weight and I had hand problems.
7. Both have fulfilled my expecations; the Gordet is more solid in terms of pitch and stability, the Jarde easier to play but the high notes 'sing'. See differences of use above.
8. brands I intend to try: none, although if I needed an oboe, I would shop for another Gordet (older), Laubin (if I could afford one), or Marigaux (I used to own one).
GoodWinds
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Dutchy
Date: 2010-10-11 04:01
1) I am 55, I live in the U.S.A.
2) I am a housewife, and I play the oboe for my own enjoyment, as a hobby.
3) I play a Fox 333; I have played it for over 5 years now. I believe it is fairly popular, as plastic intermediate oboes go.
4) A = 440.
5) I do not make my own reeds. I buy them online from an assortment of handmade reedmakers, such as Tabbytoes, Forrests, Lisa Hudson, Goodtoneguild, Stuart Dunkel, and others. They are American-style long scrape.
6) I selected the Fox 333 because I did some investigation and found that it was a highly recommended intermediate oboe, considered good value for the money(I wanted to spend around $2,000), and with a high resale value should I ever decide to move up. I actually bought it through the online auction site, but it came from a reputable online music dealer with the highest feedback rating possible, who also has a bricks-and-mortar store in Nevada, and who offered a full guarantee. It was brand-new. I was not able to try it before I bought it, but I assumed that as it was from a reputable maker, it would be all right.
7) It is a fine oboe. I am very happy with it. The only oboe I could move up to would be a wooden model, probably a Fox, but as this is only a hobby, I probably will not budget several thousand dollars for something like that.
8) If I ever did move up to a wooden oboe, I would be looking for a good used oboe, and I would go through reputable American online used oboe dealers, who give you a chance to try out (with a credit card number or a deposit). I would probably not be interested in a top-of-the-line model such as a Marigaux or a Loree, because as I said, this is just a hobby and it would seem like overkill. I would probably be looking for a wooden Fox.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: kimber
Date: 2010-10-11 14:02
1. 40, USA
2. Work in health care, play in community band.
3. 1) Loree, rosewood, bought new in 1988 to start college with. 2) Howarth 55, bought used 2 years ago to play in outdoor summer band- has plastic upper joint.
4. 440hz
5. Currently buying reeds from my professor, Chicago Reed or Reedmaker. Typical US scrape. Want to make myself, but don't have enough motivation for the time involved.
6. Loree was bought mail order from Forrests, I would have kept whatever they sent. Lucked out with a good one as I've been told over the years. Howarth was bought online from RDG with a trial by me - wanted a plastic upper joint oboe for colder winter rooms and outdoor concerts.
7. Both instruments have met expectations - Loree developed smallest bell crack after 20 yrs of play (it was during a very cold winter). Rosewood sound is beautiful. Like the feel of the Howarth key mechanism and slightly brighter/louder sound (compared to the rosewood.)
8. Not looking to change any oboes...eyes are on an english horn (and particularly a used fox or howarth.)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: mjfoboe
Date: 2010-10-11 14:39
1. 55+
2. Semi-Retired, non-professional oboist
3. This is my fourth Oboe in 20 years. (Acutally the 5th counting my High School instrument which I later sold - a stencil instrument called a Pierre.) My first was a Plastic Fox, the Second a Fossati Tiery, the Third a LW series Loree, and now a Maroguax 901 for 1 year. I had the Loree for the longest period about 10 years.
4. Pitch is 440. I play in two orchestras 16 concerts a year. I am principal in both orchestras.
5. My Marigaux reed is different from my Loree scrape. The Loree scrape was a very typical American long scrape reed with a defined heart and windows. My Marigaux reeds have to long channels with a faint heart. The tip is similar and 3-4 mm at the sides and 2mm or so in the center. I now use a 45 mm staple and a reed of 67 -68mm. I gouge my own cane. I use more that one lot of cane and multiple brands: Rigotti, Danzi, Ghys, RDG. I use Glotin brass tubes. My shaper tip is a RDG -1N.
6. I tried approximately 16 Oboes before I bought my Marigaux. Many of them were Loree Royals (I almost bought one); however, I also tried Yamaha, Fossasti, and other Marigaux models. I decided to move from the Loree because of peculiarities of the instrument and I wanted a better and more stable scale. I chose the Marigaux because of its warmth and core sound. I thought the Loree had an edge to its sound. Furthermore, reed making with the Mariguax is less of a hassle. The sound is less dependent upon the reed. The Loree was very reed dependent. Additionally, the sound from the Loree resonated from the top joint; while the sound of the Marigaux resonates from the lower joint and bell.
7. Everyones love my new sound! The Oboe did develop an incipient superficial crack in the tone hole in the first trill key - which I as a precaution had repaired. No impact upon the instrument. The repair was excellently executed. I had the lower keywork, c, eb, c# adjusted to mimic the old Loree keywork which better fit my hands.
8. No more Loree's for me! I plan to stick with Mariguax oboes. Listen to some of Peter Coopers recordings. He playing is gorgeous! Since I bought my Marigaux - my teacher bought a 901 and so did another student. The characteristics of the Marigaux sound is quite consistent across all three instruments. Although, no two instruments are ever identical.
Mark
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-10-11 14:41
1) 38, West Sussex, UK.
2) Woodwind instrument repairer, previously with Howarth for 12 years, playing oboe and cor mostly in concert bands, local orchestras and pit orchestras.
3) Howarth S5 kingwood from 1995 and a Selmer Signet Soloist 104 plastic oboe for outdoor playing.
Howarth oboes are popular in the UK being the only UK company still making oboes, from beginner level instruments through to top pro models. The S2 was the most popular pro oboe in the UK which lost popularity to the S5 and XL oboes within the last 20 years - the XL being the most popular Howarth oboe among pro players.
4) 440Hz.
5) I've been buying reeds off eBay from a seller in Korea - very well priced, European U scrape (Rigoutat No.2 shaper) with wire and very consistent. Only a small amount of adjusting to do to get them to play how I like, but the hard work has already been done.
6) I bought the S5 kingwood after it came back to the factory for a top joint transplant (it had been given a thrashing while out on approval) plus it had keywork conversion along with the transplant to make it dual system in readiness for resale in the UK. I liked the way it played from the word go and also getting it with staff discount was a bonus.
7) I played a Yamaha 821 before I got the Howarth and struggled with some tuning problems on it (mostly the saggy Gs), and the S5 was so much easier for me to get on with.
8) If I was to get another pro model oboe I'd most likely go for a Marigaux 901 as I like the thick, weighty tone quality of these - though I'd probably add a low B-C link to it as they don't come with them as standard.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2010-10-13 05:14)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: leigthom
Date: 2010-10-11 15:47
1) 66. East London - Essex UK.
2) Retired deputy head of Music Service, after years of teaching Economics. Amateur/semi pro, do play a few pro jobs a year. Oboe, oboe d'amore and cor anlais in orchestras and chamber groups.
3a) Kreul thumbplate bought second hand in 1966. Wonderful instrument, no cracks excellent intonation. Perfect for orchestral work.
3b Marigaux dual system bought second hand in 2004 from a friend who bought it new in 1968 but hadn't played it for 28 years! Excellent instrument, good intonation, better for chamber and small orchestral work.
3c) Marigaux dual system bought second hand in 2004 from same friend who bought it new in 1972, unplayed for 28 years. Excellent instrument best suited to small chamber ensembles, trios quintets etc.
4) 440Hz
5) European scrape Chang reeds from Britannia Reeds, St Albans. Most reeds play syraight out of the box, occasionally a bit of tweeking needed. I don't make my own reeds because I play all the woodwind instruments from Picc to contra bassoon as well as the saxes. I have no time to make all my own reeds.
6) Bought the Kreul from Bill Lewington of London after trying many other instruments. Bought the Marigaux privately after trying many other instruments.
7) All my instruments fulfill my expectations. I test all instruments thoroughly, testing intonation, state of the wood, keywork etc. All my instruments play well. I am helped by living near an excellent woodwind repair man. He works wonders!
8) If I were to buy a new oboe I would go and test as many instruments as possible but at present I am perfectly satisfied with what I have. I enjoy playing them and no one has complained about my playing!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: HautboisJJ
Date: 2010-10-11 16:02
Wonderful replies my friends! Thank you very much, really appreciate it!
Chris, could you show me a link to this particular seller of your reeds?
Regards,
Howard
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Ehafb
Date: 2010-10-11 18:37
1. 40 Scotland UK
2. Nurse amateur
3. Buffet Professional semi automatic oboe. bought secondhand Had for 4 years. Like the french sound. Pollard Cor Anglais. Bought of ebay!!!!
4. 440
5. Ke-Xun Ge professional standard reeds. Stray Cor reeds.
6. Can't remember where I bought it the oboe tried a few. Ddint like Howarths oboes, prefered french sound. Just wanted a cheap Cor Anglais for shows and amateur orchestra.
7. Just found the easy to play and good sound. Have local repair man who is excellent. Cor needed total overhall. Difficult to play at times but still trying to get a reed that suits it.
8. Would love to buy a new oboe sometime maybe marigaux or another Buffett.
Bryan
Bryan
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Jeltsin
Date: 2010-10-12 10:21
1) 46, Sweden.
2) Playting in an orchestra.
3) New Yamaha 431, 4 years. I don´t think Yamahas are very popular in Sweden.
4) 442 and I think is is the standard in Sweden.
5) I do my reeds by myself, but the ones that my teacher produce are better. They are about 71 mm, hard and short scrape.
6) I tried several oboes, but 4 years ago the Yamaha was the best suitable for me (nice sound and not so expensive).
7) It is easy to play on and the sound is nice. Due to the European type of bore, it is very easy to play the low notes but more difficult on the high notes. No cracks and only one major service.
8) I will buy a new oboe next year and my first choice just now is a Rigoutat (I have a friend who have a Rigoutat).
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: ohsuzan
Date: 2010-10-12 17:01
1) 66, USA (North Carolina, formerly Ohio)
2) Retired Lutheran music minister, amateur oboist (I began playing the oboe in 2004).
3) Covey Classic, bought used in 2005. Covey is a "boutique" brand, lovely instruments and a gorgeous walnut case which holds the instrument very securely. There aren't a whole lot of Covey players around.
4) A = 440
5) I prefer a narrowish shape, and a well-balanced reed with a tip that is not too long. Reeds with long tips tend to sound harsh on my Covey.
I buy my reeds. I have only ever used American scrape, and have mostly used reeds from Drew Keller for the past three years. I like Drew's reeds because they are consistent, responsive, and produce a nice "refined" sound throughout the compass of the instrument. You would have to ask Drew about the particulars of the reeds. I just play them.
6) I bought my oboe from a private party, but got the reference from The Auction Site. I bought it because I was interested in the brand. I was able to try it for two weeks before purchase, but I never seriously considered not buying it. It was my first "good" oboe, and replaced a Yamaha 411.
7) I really didn't know what I was doing when I bought it, so I didn't have many expectations, but it is a really good oboe, and has served me well. For example, when people talk about high note issues, I just can't relate, because the Covey high notes are just as easy as any other note on the instrument. It is a very sweet-sounding oboe, but it also has depth.
8) From following the chat on this board, and from conversation among fellow oboists, I would really like to try a Marigaux. I would actually like to sell my current backup oboe (an all-plastic Loree) and get a Marigaux or similar instrument, because I believe the Marigaux would be more compatible with the Covey than the Loree is.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: JRJINSA
Date: 2010-10-12 20:37
1) Your age and country which you live/work/study in.
39, USA.
2) Your profession:
Office manager and IT guy.
3) Your brand of instrument, model, and the number of years you have played it (be it 1st or 2nd hand). Is this brand a popular one in your region?
Yamaha 841. 5 years off and on. Yes, very popular here.
4) The pitch that you play in your country/region (e.g. a = 440, 442 etc).
A440
5) The basic characteristics of your reeds. Do you produce them yourself? If not, are they from a reputable maker or a teacher/professional who tries them on the same instrument as you? Are they long or short scrape? What is the length of your reeds corresponding to your pitch necessities? (e.g. i play 440 and my reeds are 72 mm) Detailed description on the materials used for the reeds are not required but encouraged (as this is more a survey of instruments not reed styles).
Yes, 72mm, long scrape. Inoledy gouger. I make them on my teacher's staples, but not sure of the brand of staple. Cane is bought from a secret gentleman here in the states.
6) Why you bought your current oboe(s). Did you buy your oboe from retailers or direct from the factories (or others)? Were you able to try your oboe before you bought it? Or did someone else try it for you?
Bought from Washington Music Company, teacher recommended shop. Purchased sight unseen, teacher approved it. First one tried was THE OBOE.
7) Did your instrument fulfill your expectations? Please elaborate/state why (e.g. cracking, inferior mechanism, wonderful intonation etc).
It has exceeded. Reed are a cinch to make for this instrument. Gorgeous tone and pitch even after 3.5 years.
8) And finally, do you intend to try a different brand/model in the future? Please elaborate/state which and why (e.g. fed up, curiosity, famous players using etc).
Would love to see what the hoopla is about Loree. Would like to try.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: joepie
Date: 2010-10-15 00:04
Hi Howard,
Thanks for starting this briljant thread! Please don't forget to share your own input with us  .
Here is my input:
1) Male, 43, I live in The Netherlands.
2) IT Project Manager
3) Marigaux 910, played on for 2 years now (2nd hand). At the present, Marigaux is the major brand in The Netherlands.
4) a = 440
5) Dutch style, short scrape. I've just started out making my own reeds, until the quality is satisfacory, I will buy them from my teacher. Reed tie on length is 70mm. Staple Chiarugi #2, 42mm + wire. Reeds pre-gouged + shaped (Prestige or Glotin).
6) Bought the Marigaux 910 to study, disliked the student Fossati that was provided by the music school. Bought it from a very reputable oboe retailer / repair shop, shop owner is a retired oboe player, quite famous in his time. Rented it for a year before I bought it. The oboe was tested for sound quality by three qualified teachers during the rental period, and always got good marks.
7) At first the Marigaux didn't perform as I expected, later I found out that my breathing technique & embouchure weren't good - had to switch teacher to find this out. Love it now. It does sound 'old style' as it is over 30 years old. It has very strong & dark sound. Never had cracks, new mechanics.
8) Will try a Marigaux Dark Altuglas and Howarth XL in the future. The Altuglas fascinates me, is reputed to have very good sound and I believe it is the future material to go as the good wood is about used up (glad I have an old oboe). The Howarth, I'm just curious about. I love (almost) everything UK, and adore the Cocobolo model. Like love at first sight. Not sure how it sounds though. Sound and feel are much more important to me than looks. Will try the Altu and XL after a couple of more years of study and pick the one that suits me best. I plan to travel to Paris & London to try and buy from the factory. Both cities near enough to my home to be considered easy city trips or interesting vacation destinations.
Post Edited (2010-10-15 00:55)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: joepie
Date: 2010-10-15 00:44
Hi Cooper,
Awww, you make me dream of Cocobolo again! But I'll be strong and will wait until I'm a better player.
Read your blog, which made a very interesting read, but somehow missed out on your new instrument? Will check it soon again.
Thanks for 'voting' for the Howarth ....
Joepie (dream dream dream)
Post Edited (2010-10-15 00:52)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: rgombine
Date: 2010-11-18 17:13
Howard -- I love this post, just because it gives us a little more insight to fellow BB-ers.
1) 44. USA
2) Physician, amateur oboist (principal in local community orchestra)Your profession (e.g. oboe teacher, principal oboe in orchestra, music student etc).
3) Howarth XL x 7 months bought new. It is growing in popularity in the U.S.
4) well, it's SUPPOSED to be 440 . . .
5) traditional N. American scrape (v. thin thip, thick heart, slightly thinner back) made by myself. Length is 68-70mm. I use cane from Weber reeds (Grimaud) which I buy pre-gauged. Shaped on Weber C or Mac-Pfeifer (at least I think it is -- I got it so long ago!). Staples are usually Weber or Chudnow.
6) After 20 years, my Loree (GT series) was pretty blown out and I changed to a Yamaha professional at the recommendation of my teacher. It seemed an attractive alternative -- much cheaper than Loree and without some of the quirks of scale. However, I was never thrilled with it -- it was a nice horn but required a lot of work on my part. The low register was full and easy, but upper register didn't have the sweetness or projection of my Loree . Also, w/ my reed set up I had a hard time keeping the mid register from running flat. I was in London visiting friends this April and tried out some instruments at the Howarth shop. What a difference -- comparatively effortless to play with a nice full sound w/ even scale and very pretty upper register. The exchange rate was extremely attractive and so that was that . . .
7) Yes. See above. Keywork is beautiful, no cracks so far.
8) I suppose at some time I might like to try a Laubin -- any instrument that people will wait 7 years for has got to be worth checking out!
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: RobinDesHautbois
Date: 2010-11-26 16:09
> 1) 41, Canada
> 2) Software Engineer (Oboe Amateur)
> 3)
a. Loree standard bore, resonite top-joint, semi-automatic 8va, 3rd 8va key, F resonnance, Left-F and aux C (banana) - 25 years (brand new, bought at age 16) - very popular at the time (the standard in my area)
b. Pan-American (beginner model) - 90 years old (owned for 6 months) - not popular at all
> 4) theoretically: 440, in practice everywhere between 438 and 444
=> I adapt by making reeds that play high and pull them out as needed
=> more or less mouth compensation is required depending on the distance away from 440
> 5) I make my own reeds European style. The scrape can be short or long depending on the individual reed. I have had successful reeds as long as 74.5mm, but generally, stable, well-tuned reeds are just under 70mm. This remains true with shorter staples and thinner cane, but thinner cane allows for shorter scrape (better stability).
> 6)
a. Loree: started formal musical training at Conservatoire de Montreal - I wanted a professional instrument.
b. Pan-American: just had fun with E-bay. Seeing as it actually plays decently, I'm using it for lunchtime in-car practice rather than risking damage to my Loree. $300 CAN (shipping and taxes included), was worth the risk.
> 7)
a. Loree: It is excellent, especially after a revoicing by Laubin, but still suffers a little bit from unstable 1st octave key notes. I chose resonite top joint for fear of cracks. I had no one at all to help me choose the instrument, but Loree recommended by 3 teachers.
b. Pan-American: nice sound, horrible keywork, bad tuning.
> 8) Yes. My Loree is very good, but I'd like to try and buy one of Dupin Imperial, Gebr.Moenning Albrecht Mayer or Laubin. Reason: I want an extraordinary instrument.
Robin Tropper
M.A.Sc., B.Mus., B.Ed.
http://RobinDesHautbois.blogspot.ca/music
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
