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Author: hautbois francais
Date: 2010-06-19 00:26
Robin:
Thx again for a detailed description of what you would do.
You said: "Your reeds might be hard because they are too open? When you follow what is written below, your reeds might go unstable if they are too long. I'll explain what I do to shorten them."
(THE FRENCH REED IS 70MM, SO NOT LONGER THAN USUAL.)
You said: "You can lengthen the back by removing the bark to about 1/2 to 2/3 of the length of the cane. You can do this in small steps: unlike American-scrape, European style allows you to re-work the overall shape of the lay (scrape) - even if you need to cut the tip by 1-3mm and redo the blend completely."
(I TAKE THIS TO MEAN, LENGTHEN THE BACK AND PRESERVE A VISIBLE SPINE, RIGHT ? AND NOT SCRAPE THE LENGTHENED BACK TOO THIN COMPARED TO THE HEART, WHICH MEANS I AM NOT OPENING WINDOWS, AM I RIGHT >)
You said: "A natural thick W will occur as you move the knife from more or less the middle of the back all the way to the front of the heart *on the sides*. Be sure that the back is never thinner than the heart (middle 1/3 of the length of the reed). If the reed remains too hard or open, thin down the W (a little bit at a time) until it looks more like a squashed U. You can also work the front of the heart to make the blend more gradual. On a few reeds, this process has ended-up looking like some pictures people have posted on Dutch and Viennese reeds (almost no bark an straight cut)."
(OK, THIS PART ANSWERS ABOUT THICKNESS OF THE LENGTHENED BACK. "squashed" U, I TAKE TO MEAN, A STRAIGHT EDGE IN THE MIDDLE AND THE EDGES OR SIDES ARE VEERING UPWARDS SLIGHTLY AS IF U ARE LEAVING SOME BARK BEHIND ON THE SIDES?)
You said: "Also, I agree with all the advice about pinching.
Going from long-thick W to U is a natural consequence of what you do to soften the reed as you "back-up" the lay of the reed, try not to consider it as different scraping styles."
(PINCHING IS A VERY SHORT TERM QUICK FIX, NOT PERMANENT FIX. IT IS PROBABLY THE SAME FOR ALL STYLES OF CUTS. I TEND TO THINK, NO MATTER WHAT, MAKING THE REED SOMEWHAT PLAYABLE MORE THAN A FEW BARS, I'D PROBABLY NEED TO SCRAPE SOME CANE OFF. THE "WHERE" IS THE KEY FOR A CONSTRUCTION THAT I AM NOT FAMILIAR WITH.)
You said: "If you do decide to cut the tip short - usually because the sound buzzes or because it gets weak & unstable - then I usually start by moving the blend backwards and then cut it. This protects the tip and usually improves the sound."
(PROBABLY WONT NEED TO CLIP IT DOWN YET. ALTHOUGH, IN MY INITIAL SCRAPES, FIRST THING I DID WAS TO MOVE THE BLEND A LITTLE BACK AND THEN THIINNED DOWN THE TIP, SIDES AND CORNERS. NOW I NEED TO BE MORE ADVENTUROUS AND MOVE THE BACK DOWN TO 1/2 TO 2/3 AND SEE WHAT THAT DOES. THIS WILL FORCE THE VIBRATIONS TO TRAVERSE DOWN THE REED WITH A LONGER BACK, WHICH COULD MAKE THE REED SOFTER, IT MAKES SENSE CONSIDERING THE PHYSICS OF IT.)
I would really appreciate if you could take the time to do up some drawings like you said. That will be a lot of help. At least, I know where all the "no fly" zones are.
Just on the side: I retired as an engineer in Si Valley, Ca. Like u, also a professional musician. So, I am sure you can empathize with my being a stickler for details, getting things right and making an error is never an option. That is what you get with an engineer cum musician mix. To add to the mix, I am also trained as an IFR pilot....
Post Edited (2010-06-19 00:31)
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-16 10:50 |
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Chris P |
2010-06-16 11:50 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 07:47 |
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jhoyla |
2010-06-16 17:39 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-16 22:45 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 00:10 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-18 03:27 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 10:05 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-18 11:05 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 16:38 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-18 23:37 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-18 16:46 |
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Chris P |
2010-06-16 23:03 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 02:06 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 04:33 |
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jhoyla |
2010-06-17 05:50 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 06:22 |
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ceri |
2010-06-17 20:21 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-17 23:28 |
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ceri |
2010-06-18 20:32 |
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Re: Making short scrape European style oboe reeds easy new |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-19 00:26 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-19 01:38 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-19 18:28 |
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ceri |
2010-06-19 13:16 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-19 14:43 |
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HautboisJJ |
2010-06-19 17:34 |
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jhoyla |
2010-06-19 21:30 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-20 01:16 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-20 01:20 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-20 05:49 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-06-21 03:02 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-06-21 10:13 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-18 06:15 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-18 13:23 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-20 07:56 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-20 10:28 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-20 23:05 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-21 03:23 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-20 23:15 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-21 03:37 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-21 06:33 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-08-29 00:22 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-08-29 23:02 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-06 00:44 |
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ceri |
2010-09-06 14:48 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-07 09:57 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-07 09:38 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-07 10:21 |
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ceri |
2010-09-07 14:56 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-07 16:10 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-07 22:33 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-08 00:18 |
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ceri |
2010-09-08 11:22 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-08 12:47 |
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GoodWinds |
2010-09-09 03:49 |
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ceri |
2010-09-09 07:17 |
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JRC |
2010-09-10 15:41 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-10 16:56 |
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JRC |
2010-09-10 18:37 |
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wkleung |
2010-09-10 19:10 |
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JRC |
2010-09-10 19:54 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-11 15:30 |
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RobinDesHautbois |
2010-09-11 17:15 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-12 00:07 |
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mjfoboe |
2010-09-12 03:16 |
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hautbois francais |
2010-09-12 03:23 |
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mjfoboe |
2010-09-12 12:21 |
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ceri |
2010-09-14 12:42 |
The Oboe BBoard
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