 The Oboe BBoard
|
Author: RobinDesHautbois
Date: 2010-06-08 23:06
I have an old oboe, student model, whose octave vent (thumb key) must be soiled because using it doesn't raise the octave but does other weird things.
I was wondering if anyone has any experience cleaning these: the only things that make it better than your average high-school instrument is that its all wood and made in 1921! Very nice sound and predictable tuning.
I'd rather not spend the money (or time away) to send it off to a pro. I was thinking of removing it and dipping it in CLR.
Any comments? Is an octave remover absolutely necessary or can I mill down a cheap pair of needle-nose plyers?
Thanks.
Robin Tropper
M.A.Sc., B.Mus., B.Ed.
http://RobinDesHautbois.blogspot.ca/music
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-08 23:38
If you're making your own 8ve insert removal tool, make the business end of it from a single piece of flat steel with the end cut and filed to leave two projecting round prongs on it that locate into the holes in the insert (and enough clearance between them not to damage the crown of the bedplace). Better to use something with fixed prongs than pliers as pliers can open/close when you don't want them to.
Once you remove the 8ve top, give the insert (the part fixed into the top joint with the internal thread) and the hole going through the base into the bore a good cleanout to remove all grot and corrosion, so use a metal scraper fashioned from a piece of steel or a thick needle spring, but do try to keep the inside smooth and shiny rather than leaving it rough.
The vent hole through the top part should be between 0.7mm and 0.75mm, though some makers do have a larger vent hole in the upper vent which can be 0.8mm or maybe more. Best stick with 0.7mm or 0.75mm on both vents to be on the safe side. If the hole is too large, you can always fill it in with soft solder and redrill it to a smaller diameter (but still keeping the depth the vent hole has to go through same).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris J
Date: 2010-06-09 03:49
Would it harm to carefully poke the hole with a needle spring, in situ, possibly with some lighter fuel on as a solvent, then a good blow into it?
Might prevent the need to remove it from the body?
Chris
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-09 10:24
Hi Robin, I'm a repairer and have previously worked as an oboe finisher for Howarth - definitely not a high school band teacher as they wouldn't know that amount of detail!
Remember to seal the 8ve tops with grease or wax when you replace them, and then check the vent hole isn't blocked by any stray grease or wax by poking a needle spring through it and watching as it enters the bore (looking through the reed socket) to see if it has collected anything along the way in.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: RobinDesHautbois
Date: 2010-06-09 10:35
That explains a whole lot!
Howarth is apparently the only manufacturer left that does rings on pro. models.
I've found many high-school band masters to be very creative and inventive to protect their limited budget. No I was never one, but I have observed it.
Thanks for the sealing advice too.
Robin Tropper
M.A.Sc., B.Mus., B.Ed.
http://RobinDesHautbois.blogspot.ca/music
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-06-09 13:17
Howarth will make ring key pro models (S2, S3 and S4) as a special order, but primarily make Gillet conservatoire system as standard on pro models as this is now the most widely used system.
I think Püchner may be the only other maker offering ring key conservatoire system instruments.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
