 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2010-03-10 19:24
My recent problems with water in my trill keys and octave keys led me to explore various instrument cleaning options. I was told by one oboe player to use a cotton swab as it's more absorbant (it soaks up the water rather than push it into the tone holes as she believes a silk swab does.) I was told by another oboe player that silk swabs are more absorbant and to not bother with cotton swabs. I was also told that feathers don't really absorb anything and bits of feathers can get stuck in the tone holes. Any opinions on swabs or feathers out there? Also, what about oiling the bore? Some people believe in it, some don't. I don't really know what to think about this.
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Author: Bill_D
Date: 2010-03-10 19:29
I use a feather followed by a silk swab for the top joint, but only the silk swab before putting the oboe in its case. Silk swab for bottom joint.
I'd look at manufacturer's instructions for oiling or not.
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2010-03-11 07:14
I use a silk swab, because it goes all the way through and out the other side. I have not yet found a cotton swab that does this. I pull the swab slowly 2-3 times until it stops "creaking" and runs smoothly. Silk does not "soak up" water the way cotton does, but it certainly wicks it up (use a dropper on your silk swab to prove this) and dries rapidly.
I oil my instruments at multi-year intervals, based on the condition of the wood - if it still looks good I don't bother. I oil only the bell, and allow my normal swabbing procedures to spread tiny amounts through the bore over the subsequent few weeks.
The jury is still out about oiling. There are some who soak their instruments in oil, and some who never, ever, ever oil. If in doubt, don't do it, since soaking the inside of the instrument with oil can only add to the stresses that can cause cracking (though temperature extremes are the No. 1 culprit here).
J.
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Author: Dutchy
Date: 2010-03-11 16:27
I use silk in the top joint followed by a homemade swab of a thin strip of chamois, because it's lint-free and absorbent, and for the bottom joints I use another homemade swab composed of silk and another wider strip of chamois.
I have never used a feather; since birds preen in order to deliberately spread oil from their oil gland over their feathers to make them waterproof, it seems counterproductive to use a feather and expect it to absorb moisture.
Memo to anyone who might think of it: do not use swabs made out of those microfiber face cloths. I made one for myself, sure that I was on the brink of a major swab breakthrough, and it shed extraordinary quantities of lint which eventually completely plugged up the octave hole. That's what was in there when I finally took it apart to see what was plugging it up--pink lint.
Post Edited (2010-03-12 15:21)
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2010-03-11 17:41
wow, thanks for the warning!
No microfiber swabs. Check. And nice idea using chamois.
J.
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Author: JRJINSA
Date: 2010-03-11 17:57
Silk swab for all pieces. For the top joint, I NEVER pull it all the way through. I just pull it through just enough for it to do its job (fairly tight) and then pull it back through the large end. My teacher says pulling all the way through the narrow top can be abrasive to the top joint and throw it's tuning out of wack. Been doing this for four years with no problems.
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2010-03-11 18:47
Hmmm... I don't think I ever considered that pulling a silk swab all the way through the top joint could be abrasive. Maybe I'll invent a narrow, lint free sponge that fits in the upper joint to soak up excess water. Through the center of the sponge could be a smooth rubber or plastic rod to add a little rigidity. This rod could stick through the bottom of the sponge so that it can be used as a handle. I guess it would look similar to a pad saver.
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2010-03-11 20:01
There are silk swabs, and there are silk swabs.
Howarth sell a swab that is designed to be used in the way you describe - it has a lace sewn all the way through and a long tail that can be used to pull the swab back the way it came. You could force it through, but it is not recommended.
The type of swab I am talking about is extremely fine, and pulls all the way through without problems. I do not recall from where it was purchased but it is designed to be used in this manner.
Oh yes - I've been doing this for 30+ years on the same wooden instrument and not caused any damage yet (1976 vintage Strasser-Marigaux). Intonation still impeccable. When dry, the swab just slips all the way through. When the instrument is wet inside, pulling slowly makes the swab "creak". Second or third time through it is smooth as, er, silk.
J.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-03-11 22:32
Definitely silk for oboes due to the fact silk will compress right down when bunched up and fit through the narrowest part of the bore right at the reed socket. I always drop the pullthrough weight in from the bell (holding the oboe upside down so the main part of the pullthrough runs over the lip of the bell to be sure it's unfolded properly) and pull it out from the reed socket during and after playing.
With the correct size silk pullthrough (don't use a cor one on oboe!) you can do the entire instrument while fully assembled (and with several passes as already mentioned), and dry the sockets on instruments with unlined sockets when you take it apart (with a piece of kitchen roll and NOT the pullthrough).
Never pull any pullthrough through too fast - always pull it through slowly enough to give the water time to be absorbed into the silk and also to see and catch any knots or bunching beforehand that could mean the pullthrough getting stuck in the top joint with embarrassing consequences.
Luckily I've so far never had any pullthroughs get stuck (both two piece cotton ones and silk ones with and without tails), but have seen many that have - either because of knots in the string or the pullthrough not being properly unfolded and pulled through too fast.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: GoodWinds ★2017
Date: 2010-03-11 23:56
I use silk for the whole instrument during a concert, and afterward run a small chamois (on a weighted string) through the bottom joint.
I like the idea of oiling only the bell and let the swam 'carry' some into the instrument in very small bits.
Re: feathers. I've never used a turkey feather but my teacher recommended a pheasant feather as they are so straight; fortunately my relatives in Nebraska used to hunt them so I (formerly) had a decent supply. Have NEVER seen pheasant feathers offered by the retailers though. And I would only use a feather in the upper joint if my playing had yielded a very, very small amount of moisture.
So interesting to find such different habits/regimens out there, ain't it?
GoodWinds
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2010-03-12 00:47
I currently use a loree silk swab with a string on both ends in case it gets stuck. It fits through my top joint just fine, unless I'm careless and I don't notice when the string gets knotted up, but with the string on both ends, it's safer. Anyhow, I originally posted the question because some oboe players I know believe that the cotton swabs work better. I never used cotton, so I couldn't tell you. I wasn't sure if silk was more absorbant, but I do know that it goes through the top joint quite easily. Also, as mentioned, I heard different opinions about using feathers.
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Author: Chris J
Date: 2010-03-12 06:07
Interesting to hear the various approaches
I am new to oboe, from clarinet, and a bore oil believer.
I have a wool mop that is made specifically to oil the UJ of a clarinet. It delives a very fine amount of (The Dr's) bore oil. I used to put squares of grease-proof paper under the closed pads before oiling, but haven't bothered to do that for a long time as it just does not get oil into the tone holes.
I use that mop on the LJ of the oboe.
For the UJ, I have a second silk swab. I dab a very small amount of bore oil along the swab that is lost immediately into the thread. I pull it through as usual from the bottom and then keep it in a small ziplock bag ready for the next time.
Chris
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-03-12 10:00
As for phesant feathers, I can't stand the things! They shed filaments that accumulate in toneholes, on pads, around pillars and also get embedded in the case lining.
Evelyn Rothwell/Barbirolli suggests using a budgie feather to clean reeds with (passing through the staple and out through the reed aperture) in her reed book - not sure if I'd like a dose of psittacosis but that could be the ideal way of catching it.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Dutchy
Date: 2010-03-12 15:25
I too don't think that pulling silk through a steel reed well could be abrasive, because (a) silk isn't that abrasive, and (b), well, it's steel. In order to abrade steel, I think you need something a little harsher than silk. ![[grin]](http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/smileys/smilie5.gif)
Or am I the only one with an oboe (Fox) that has a steel reed well? I've always assumed they were standard equipment.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-03-12 17:14
Reed sockets are usually made from nickel silver or brass (and may or may not be plated). I don't know of any makers using steel (which would have to be stainless) for reed sockets.
Marigaux M2 phenol resin headjoints don't have a metal reed socket - they have an artifical ivory tip instead (and there's no need for metal socket linings on plastic instruments anyway).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2010-03-12 17:54
Hmm... not sure how the reed socket comment got on here. Maybe I missed something. Anyhow, I also saw that forrests is selling "fumigated" pheasant feathers. I used to get these for free when my uncle hunted, never thought of fumigating them though. Anyhow, the subject of feathers came up in my mind when I saw a professional oboist use one throughout his solo (during the rests of course.) I'm not really sure why people still use feathers, as I have had some issues with bits of feathers coming off inside my oboe and I don't view them (feathers) as being as effective. I also heard of using turkey feathers. Not sure if these feathers are any sturdier though.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2010-03-12 19:03
Any oboes I've worked on that have a manky old pheasant feather in the case (or case cover) gets binned straight away - and also given the case a good going over with the vacuum cleaner to get all the bits out.
So if you've had your oboe serviced or overhauled by me, chances are that knackered old pheasant feather is now landfill which is why it isn't in there when you get it back.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Bill_D
Date: 2010-03-12 23:38
I'm shattered. The feather is my second most favorite thing about the oboe.
I have a used Loree Royal for trial, & I was going to get it, partly because it comes with a really nice turkey feather.
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Author: lbarton
Date: 2010-03-13 14:38
I have used both silk swabs and turkey feathers. Both will do the job if used properly. Feathers commercially available have been cleaned and sterilized so the natural oil of feather largely removed and it is now absorbent, and clean. Swabs must be thin enough and have long enough pull cords so they don't get stuck., but still used carefully so they don't bunch up.
I prefer feathers, but always trim off the thinnest tip part of the quill and also the fuzzy soft stuff at the other end so nothing comes off. I also discard them when they get bent or fuzzy looking and never push them from center tenon beyond the upper octave vent--so they don't get stuck .
I prefer them to the swabs because I can quickly remove the upper joint, and dry out that joint in the middle of a concert faster than I ever can with a swab. You don't even have to remove the reed , since you are not going to push feather up beyond the octave vent. Generally that's where the causes a problem, and the lower joints can be cleaned at leisure before putting oboe away. Turkey feathers can be obtained at craft stores, but bigger and better ones by Googling on "ostrich feathers" where Steve something, can't remember exact name sells all kinds of feathers in bulk. I do not use pheasant because they are too soft and spines too weak and thin.
Having personally known two peolple who got silk swabs stuck in their oboes in the middle of concert I prefer a turkey feather properly trimmed and used.
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Author: jhoyla
Date: 2010-03-15 07:15
Cleaning reeds - there are tiny dental brushes you can buy, make "Paro", type "isola long". You can use either 1014-xx-fine, or 1016-x-fine.
They are long enough if all you want to clean is the area at the top of the staple (use the x-fine for this). If you want to clean right through you can drop them tail-first into the staple and give a little push with your mandrel, and then pull it through with the tail (which now protrudes, since you've given it a nudge).
I find this very useful if I suspect a fibre of cane has got caught between the blades, causing a leak. You can maneuver the brush through the sides when pulling through. And cleaning the gunk out of your reed is a must. I'm sure many perfectly good reeds are thrown out because they are gunked up inside.
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Author: hautboy
Date: 2010-03-15 18:55
LOL I'm one of those people who got a swab stuck in my oboe in the middle of a concert. I was in college and I had to resort to using an oboe from oboe class. It was awful, and I had all kinds of solos, but not enough time to find another oboe player. In that case I should have used a feather or bought a swab with a string on BOTH ends.
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