Author: cjwright
Date: 2009-02-09 14:20
Old Loree B series - Weber staple. Cover a bit more than thinner-walled staples.
AK Loree - Chudnow staple. Helps with the sagging low Cs, and sharper middle Es.
Regarding matching your staple opening with your reed well opening, I don't think this necessarily has positive effects. If you look down a Loree (and many oboes today) from the bell up, you'll see that the size of the diameter of the top joint is quite smaller than the size of the top of the topjoint. In fact, one of the critical features of the de Lancie model Loree was the difference in size between the two joints. Similarly, there is often a difference in size between the bottom of the staple and the opening of the reed well, which plays into the entire acoustical scheme of the oboe. Talk to Alvin Swiney more about all of this as he knows all when it comes to acoustics.
Tom Stacy commonly does the champhering of every bocal he gets his hands on. My feeling, as stated before, is that if you've got a very good, consistent, clean scrape, it's generally better to go with the thinner walled stuff. And I fully agree, there's something more liquidy, almost chocolaty that comes out of a thin walled staple that can't be reproduced on a thicker walled staple.
Cooper
cooperwrightreeds.com
Edit:
Two afterthoughts. Rigotti staples tend to be a hair flatter in the upper register. This could be due to the narrower shape of them. (Just take note so you know the tendancies of your current staple!)
If you're curious about playing with your staples a bit, try cutting a very small piece of electrical tape, (maybe 1mm wide, 10-15mm long depending on how far you want to go up) and insert it into the bottom of your staple. This will change the rate of taper in your staple, and will sometimes reveal insights into acoustical properties of the staple and further effects down in your oboe.
Blog, An Oboe In Paradise
Solo Oboe, Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra
Post Edited (2009-02-09 14:51)
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