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Re: Really minor repair....

Author: Chris P
Date: 2008-05-31 23:13

Sorry Mike, but I can't remember what make oboe you've got.

Make sure there's a tiny bit of play in the linkage (when the joints are together) as putting a piece of cork that's too thick will hold the C-D trill pad open. Glue it on with contact cement (or impact cement such as Evo-Stik - the kind of adhesive you need to coat both the surfaces of the key and cork, set them aside to dry then stick them together and trim the excess cork off), but degrease the underside of the linkage with isopropyl or similar alcohol first.

To prevent the cork coming off in the future, remove the cork from the projecting part of the linkage that overhangs the socket ring, but still have cork on the remaining part. You don't need the cork to be trimmed to an L-shape and covering the entire underside of the key, just cover the vertical part from the tip (which can be trimmed off later), into the arch and down to the end of the right angle bend.

If you are going to use superglue (which may be alright for this kind of application, though it may soak into the cork if it has open pores), degrease the underside of the linkage well and leave it for the alcohol to fully evaporate before applying glue, then stick the cork on, press it down and trim off the excess. But there's more chance of the cork coming off if you catch the edge of it when putting it back in the case (which probably caused the cork to come off, especially if shellac or superglue was used to glue the cork on as both types of adhesive are brittle).

You really ought to take the RH C-D trill key off to do this, so start by removing the LH F key, undo the retainer hoop screw (if fitted) and if possible, remove the banana key as well unless you can't gain access to the banana key screw while the feather keys (LH low B, Bb and Eb key cluster) are still in place.

Then undo the bell key linkage screw at the lower end of the joint, pull it out part way (but not entirely - by about 5-10mm is plenty) and the feather keys should come off from the lower end first (make sure the D#-E lever doesn't catch under the banana key if you can't remove the banana key while the feather keys are in situ, though you should have access to the banana key screw once the lower end of the feather keys is released).

Once the feather keys are off, remove the screw holding the RH C-D trill key and the LH F linkage and take these keys off. Now you can replace and trim the cork on the underside of the trill key and replace it and the LH F link, making sure you oil the key barrel before relacing the screw.

Put a drop of oil in the ends of the feather key steel and replace it, touchpieces first, making sure you get the D#-E linkage arm over the bar soldered to RH 3 and the lower end linkage under the low B key lever.

If you did have to replace the banana key while you have easy access to it, do this before the feather keys are completely fitted (though make sure the linkages on the feather keys locate in their correct positions). Then tighten up the bell link screw and replace the retainer hoop and the LH F key, always making sure you add a singe drop of oil to the key barrel or screw thread before putting the screws back in.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2008-06-01 18:04)

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