Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-06-17 19:03
On the Selmer-style one, the low D lever linkage is unreliable as it slides around in the slot before it does anything if it even does anything, although the slot in the linkage arm could be filled in and redrilled to a round or slightly oval hole to prevent the pin from sliding around for a more reliable action. Having a much longer leverage, the LH low D lever would probably feel better balanced.
The Yamaha-style one has a heavy LH low D lever as the linkage piece/leverage to the low D key is very short, which in turn has to operate both the low E and low D pad cups. I've added teflon tubing to reduce the friction at the linkage end as much as is possible which has helped, although you are held to ransom by how lightly you can get the spring tension to still make the action feel positive.
The keywork on the Selmer-style one I did see a few years back felt very spongy under the fingers - while mine also has some flexing which is to be expected with such long levers and torsion in the long rods, it's not as bad as some Chinese basses.
It was the ridiculously low price which was the main incentive to buy it and it was definitely a gamble. Now I know it's a player after spending time to go over it, I'll be using it where I'd rather not risk my Prestige bass coming to nay harm - definitely an outdoor or cold conditions bass. I do have to work a bit harder to get a full sound from it, but that could be of benefit rather than a curse.
I forgot to mention the tonehole bedplaces/countersinks were all nicely cut with no chips or rough edges in them that woud otherwise compromise pad life. There are some rough edges where they meet the bore, but that's often the case with ebonite when the cutters break through which could be addressed with some slight undercutting to neaten them, not that it's really necessary on a low cost bass.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2021-06-18 00:18)
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The Clarinet BBoard
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