Author: m1964
Date: 2018-07-04 20:18
Hi,
I just stumbled across an e-Bay listing for a re-pad service that includes new tenon corks and key corks, all of it for just $99.
Can you please read my situation below and give me some advice?
I am (now) an amateur, playing in a local band. I re-started playing after a break of 26 years. I currently play an E12 Buffet I bought from a local person, whose son used it in high school. I think this E12 is about 12-15 y. o.
I recently bought a used (from year 2000) R13 off e-Bay, which was described as seller refurbished, however needed all new pads.
At first, I considered doing it myself- I changed pads and tenon corks before, one time I re-padded a Boosey&Hawkes (which I sold on e-bay a few years back).
However, that B&H clarinet would not hold vacuum that well.
So, after considering that I would have to buy all the supplies (pads, alcohol lamp or better, butane burner, butane fuel, etc.), I started looking for a local repairman in NY/NJ.
One person (highly recommended on this forum) said he would not do a simple re-pad but would do a total overhaul for $700, which I could not afford.
In addition, I did not think the R13 needed a total overhaul because the metal/keys looked fine (except one that was slightly loose) and I did not see any visible damage on tone holes.
Another repairman was recommended by my daughter's violin teacher. He agreed to re-pad, install new tenon corks and do necessary adjustments for "just" $350. He said that it was the lowest price he could do. He sounded like he really knew what he would be doing.
I am supposed to get back my "new" R13 this weekend.
A couple of days ago, while practicing on the E12, I found some increased resistance blowing lower E-F and upper B-C notes. After checking it out, I found a ripped pad on a trill key on the upper joint. I replaced the pad and now it plays better.
However, in order to remove the trill keys, I had to remove the F-sharp and E-flat/B-flat side keys. I noted that those pads, while not ripped, could use replacements too, as well as the C-sharp/g-sharp (left pinky).
The upper joint on this E12 does hold pressure but does not hold vacuum well.
So, now I am back in the same boat: do I try the re-pad it myself or go to a professional?
The keys on this E12 are in fine condition, as well as the tone holes (as far as I can see).
I estimate that buying good quality pads, glue and heat source would set me back by $50-$100 (depending if I get an alcohol lamp or a burner).
Did any one have experience with any of the mail re-pad services?
If yes, what do you think? If possible, in you reply, please, state your level (amateur, semi-pro, pro).
Thanks a lot for reading this very long post.
I really appreciate your help.
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The Clarinet BBoard
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