The Clarinet BBoard

The Clarinet BBoard The C4 standard

New Topic | Go to Top | Go to Topic | Search | Help/Rules | Smileys/Notes | Log In

Previous Message | Next Message

Re: Recork glue

Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-01-11 04:03

I used to use hot glue for key corks, but then changed to using Evo-Stik as that's what I used while at Howarth. Like with everything, the success is in the preparation, so degrease, degrease and degrease again.

What I like about Evo-Stik is after all the prep is done, I can set to work sticking all the key corks on. This is my method:

- Arrange the keys and other fittings in order of the various widths and thicknesses where the silencing material is to be glued to.

- Apply Evo-Stik to the pre-cut long strips and different thicknesses of silencing material (usually rubco, felt/ultrasude and natural cork) I'm going to use and put them aside to become touch dry.

- Apply Evo-Stik to the surface on the keys/fittings where the silencing materials are to be stuck to and work through the set in turn.

- Once that's done, start sticking and cutting off to length the silencing materials to the keys/fittings starting with the keys that have been glued up first.

- When you've finished sticking everything in place, trim and shape all the silencing materials using a fresh razor starting on the softest materials first to get a nice clean cut on them and then immediatedly move onto tougher materials thatcan be trimmed with a less than sharp blade. Then bin the razor as it's no use and use a fresh one and do the same again until all the keys and fittings are all done. I prefer to use a fresh razor on felt, ultrasuede and natural cork and then move onto trimming thin rubco (tech cork) with the blade just after that. I use double sided razor blades snapped in half to get two single sided blades from and they're cheap to buy in bulk.

The thing I don't like about using hot glue for key corks is you have to heat the keys up to do that (not good if there are pads in close proximity to where the key cork as to go), plus it doesn't always give a nice finish if it doesn't go on evenly or oozes out the sides and has to be cleaned up.

I'm in the process right now of servicing a Marigaux 2001 oboe and have all the keys and other pieces laid out in order to fit all new key corks. I only use rubco for under adjusting screws and natural cork for open standing keys on oboes. On clarinets I use rubco nearly everywnere, plus ultrasuede or felt for open standing keys to keep key noise down to a minimum and the only place I use natural cork is the wedge under the throat A touchpiece. I fit a domed nylon tip to the throat G# key as that's far better than anything else (likewise with the back 8ve key, 3rd 8ve key, LH1 fingerplate, D#-E mechanism on oboes and the bell vent and key on them if they have adjusting screws fitted).

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Reply To Message | Avail. Forums | Flat View

Newer Topic | Older Topic

Topics

Author

Date

Recork glue new

JonTheReeds

2017-12-29 01:21