 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: shmuelyosef
Date: 2017-08-23 01:14
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I have recently decided to upgrade my "go to" plastic clarinet (old Bundy that is irreparably band-aided together) and after reading up online decided to procure a couple different models to try:
Vito 7214
B&H 1-10
I spent a few weeks trolling eBay and have managed (for a total budget of <$200) to collect a couple of each model...amazingly, one of each model arrived in playable (only slightly compromised) condition, but I'm going to repad all four at a minimum.
I stripped the better-looking B&H 1-10 (but the pads had been nibbled on) yesterday and measured for pads. It seemed that more than half the pads were original (this is a 1963-1964 vintage horn) as the cups were pristine and all had a little dab of unknown adhesive. The body and keywork are in spectacular condition.
Today as I was scraping the tenon cork, it seemed like it, too, was original! Here comes my comment/question. In the adhesive (either shellac or something that otherwise became very hard) under the cork I found some fine gauge, red cloth thread that had been wrapped around the tenon and tied off. All three body tenons had this same treatment. My first guess was that this was placed there for ease in removing the cork/adhesive residue. After taking 2-3 times as long as a normal cork scrape, I'm not sure of that. Ended up having to scrape down to the thread carefully, cut it in several places and then carefully unwrap it.
I attached a few pictures...has anyone seen this kind of cork treatment before? Is this original B&H work from the 60s?
jeff
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2017-08-23 05:03
That looks like orange shellac. Before contact cement became the standard shellac was used to attach corks.
Not sure what the string is though. Never seen that before.
-Jdbassplayer
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Author: Tony F
Date: 2017-08-23 08:11
I've seen twine on tenons before, but only on much older instruments. Possibly it has been at some stage recorked by an "old-style" repairer. It's more common on flutes.
Tony F.
Post Edited (2017-08-23 09:14)
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Author: Micke Isotalo ★2017
Date: 2017-08-23 10:36
Could the purpose of the thread be to increase the diameter, if thicker cork wasn't available?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-08-23 15:09
I'm sure I've encountered this on a plastic B&H before - either an older plastic Regent or maybe a plastic bodied Emperor (which is just a Regent with silver plated keys).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Caroline Smale
Date: 2017-08-24 03:58
I have occasionally seen this in the past, thogh usually more neatly done.
I suspect that the repairer may have been trying to fill the turned grooves in the tenon to create a more level surface when recorking
I have on a few occasion done something similar myself when faced with an overly deep tenon recess that would have otherwise required an excessively thick cork to be fitted.
Or to fill those horrible wavy tenon recesses that Buffet used at one time.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2017-08-24 08:06
>> Or to fill those horrible wavy tenon recesses that Buffet used at one time. <<
Unfortunately other companies did that too.
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Author: Josje
Date: 2017-08-24 10:30
Using a thread to thicken the tenon is a usual procedure on recorders. But then it is placed over the cork (that became to thin to make the parts fit neatly), not under it. It is done by the owner to delay the need of a cork recplacement (saving money).
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-08-24 15:24
I'm pretty sure Buffet still use the wavy tenon slots on standard R13s.
Threading tenons adds strength to particularly thin or weak tenons, such as pear, maple or boxwood recorder tenons and boxwood Baroque flutes and fifes (1 to 6 key). I've glued thread into tenon slots on pear and maple recorders that have split to give them support, then corked over the top of that.
Players often wind some thread over loose tenon corks as a temporary measure. PTFE tape will also get you by until you can have the tenon cork replaced and is better as it will compress better (also good for wrapping oboe/cor anglais reeds).
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: shmuelyosef
Date: 2017-08-24 21:53
Thanx for the comments...I also use PTFE tape a lot (for plumbing, too). Chris, the Regent is just a 1-10 as I recall...this one was much played but in remarkable condition.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-08-24 22:20
shmuelyosef wrote:
"Chris, the Regent is just a 1-10 as I recall"
Or the 1-10 is just a Regent, depending which ide of the Atlantic you're on.
The 2-20 is an Edgware with a metal bell ring. B&H clarinets didn't have metal bell rings as standard - mainly export models had metal bell rings and some stencil models and special editions had them too.
Here are the three main types of B&H bell (L to R) - standard wooden bell, export model bell and standard plastic bell (and sometimes this shape in wood too):
http://test.woodwind.org/clarinet/BBoard/download.html/1,2964/b&hbells%20001.JPG
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: shmuelyosef
Date: 2017-08-29 04:09
Both of the ones I bought have a plastic bell resembling the "Export model bell" in the middle.
The keywork is really exceptional on this horn (never having worked on one). However, I have also never overhauled a clarinet that requires 7 different pad sizes! That's almost as bad as saxophones...
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