The Clarinet BBoard

The Clarinet BBoard The C4 standard

New Topic | Go to Top | Go to Topic | Search | Help/Rules | Smileys/Notes | Log In

Previous Message | Next Message

Re: Yamaha YAC-20 rebuild questions

Author: Chris P
Date: 2017-05-02 19:00

If the YCL-20 is like the old YCL-24, then it is an incredibly well built clarinet. They appear to be based on the Selmer Series 9* and the keywork is impeccable and far better made than any equivalent clarinet and better than current Yamahas.

With all plastic bodied instruments, there has to be some lateral play in the keywork relative to the lengths of the key barrels and rods (longer key barrels/rods needing more end play than shorter ones) to ensure the keywork won't bind up solid when played outdoors or in cold churches as plastic expands/contracts in all directions with changes in temperature whereas metal is far more thermally stable - the two don't really mix. This is fine when it comes to keys mounted on rod screws as they will remain in the same plane whereas keys mounted between points will have far more play in all directions.

It is indeed possible to cork pad plastic clarinets (I have a YCL-24 which is mostly cork padded and has leather pads in the four largest pad cups) and the combination of both cork pads and plastic clarinets goes together very well to give an instrument that seals bottle tight and therefore very responsive. But you will have to prep cork pads to make them perfectly flat and have no flaws or imperfections running across the face as that will cause a leak.

Toneholes on plastic instruments are usually perfect if they've been machined well, but still check them to be sure they're level. Plastic doesn't have pores or a grain pattern, so you can largely expect toneholes to be spot on unless they have been damaged.

Yamaha used two different types of resin for their woodwinds - phenolic resin (Bakelite) which is a heavy, dense and brittle plastic and is now only used by Yamaha for student clarinet and sax mouthpieces (4C, 5C, etc.). They changed to using ABS resin which injection moulds really well with excellent detail, but is less dense and has a low melting point, so if you are drilling or cutting into it, go slowly otherwise the plastic will melt.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Reply To Message | Avail. Forums | Flat View

Newer Topic | Older Topic

Topics