 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: Ashley91489
Date: 2006-10-28 20:35
Sometimes my second octave will get water in it and the A especially will sound very gurgly. Since you can't use a swap to clean up that far into the top joint, how do you get the water out so the note plays properly? Would a feather work? I've heard very good things about using them since they supposedly coat the bore with water so that it drains down instead of getting stuck and pooling up.
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Author: vboboe
Date: 2006-10-28 22:33
that works like a charm :-)
but you have to take your oboe apart and fiddle with it
... so an ounce of prevention is this
use full air pressure to thoroughly warmup the oboe in the middle register *** before *** opening any octave keys at all
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Author: sylvangale
Date: 2006-10-28 23:20
Susan made a suggestion of when pulling the swab through the oboe let it sit in the top joint a bit and it may just absorb what excess is there (Pull some swab through top, but leave most of it inside).
Propping the keys open works well. You can easily do the same by folding up some paper and placing the paper under the right place to keep your octave keys from closing. The water will simply evaporate like it does for the open keys. Especially handy after a long practice.
Then there is Al Markel's Rain X method in where you use the orignal non-wax rain-X formula, put some on a feather and rub it around in bore to repel water from the open holes.
Regards,
Stephen
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-10-28 23:23
Prevention is always better than cure - though we are usually expected to play under difficult conditions and don't get any sympathy from other players (especially the [insert expletive here] BRASS players!) when our 8ve bushes get water in them.
And now the weather is getting colder we should expect this to happen more often, as well as know how to deal with it when it does happen.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: vboboe
Date: 2006-10-29 03:59
... does that Rain X stuff really truly work, no dried residual gumming up the hole or sticking to the pad?
<<difficult conditions>> amen <<Brass players>> AND sax players, Amen
picture this
short sleeve shirt uniform for late spring
mixed sun & cloud day, warm above
we're in the cool shady band-stand in the park
pleasant June breezes through bandstand drying up any reed
= one (beep) cold wind tunnel in about two minutes!
goosebumps all over, everybody shivering like winter
still waiting for MC (outside in the sun, sweating a bit) to finish our intro
Moi et beaucoup mes amis had pegs to hold down our music
brassy French Horn and cocky 3rd Trumpet declined them when they were handed out earlier in the indoor tea-room
... director poised ...
oboe had 17 rest-bars intro, brrr! it's (beep!) cold
double reed got a long warm wet kiss in mouth
oboe got a hug between straight arm and body to stay warm
many extra breezes huffed and puffed ...
and yahay! guess which brass got NO sympathy ;-}
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2006-10-29 13:22
Careful now - I'm also a sax player and suffered with water blocking the crook key vent when out on marches (in JUNE!), but that was a Selmer alto I was using - I can't use my Yamaha (875EX) as it hasn't got a lyre attachment, just as well as I don't want this alto to come to any grief. My jacket buttons scratched up the lacquer on my Selmer alto, so for a festival I swapped saxes with one of the girls as she had plastic jacket buttons, so it was an old silver MkVI (belonging to the Royal Navy) that I scratched up instead!
But even some rehearsal halls are less than ideal - we used a school hall one weekend, but they only put the heating on just as we started the rehearsal, so the hall wasn't even warm by the time we'd finished. I was on clarinet for that, so I kept getting water gurgling in the speaker tube.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: mschmidt
Date: 2006-10-31 20:22
I don't know anything about Rain-X, but I tried some teflon tile grout sealant in my octave holes and haven't had any problems. It's very thin stuff, and I applied it very sparingly....
Mike
Still an Amateur, but not really middle-aged anymore
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Author: Oboe42
Date: 2006-11-04 07:48
There is a substance you can order from Forrests in California called Woodwind-all, I am sure it would be available elsewhere. It's great especially since getting rid of condensation in the octave vent (bushing) is really difficult because of the small space. I only recommend it if you are comfortable with removing the upper octave key yourself and replacing it on the oboe as that will be the only way to use it.
The process I use to clear my octave vents is as follows, I use a silk swab to remove any excess moisture from the bore, then I try to blow as much of the condensation out as is possible using a bit of cigarette paper to catch. If that hasn't done the job, then I remove my octave key and (with a sewing needle I keep in my case) I clear the air way. If the condensation persists I use the woodwind-all and spray it down into the tone hole. It evaporates quickly and takes any moisture right along with it.
I don't use feathers because the individual barbs can break off in your tone holes and cause even more moisture issues.
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Author: oboeaw
Date: 2006-11-04 14:49
use bore oil to oil the bore.
Then you shound clean the octave vent as well
also you can get "Woodwind All" to spray the octave vent.
AW
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