Author: Chris P
Date: 2018-09-27 19:42
oboeyogi wrote:
"What do you mean lost on motion. My guess = no movement or play when slowly pressing down RH2 or RH3 to movement on F# key?"
Lost motion/double action means there being a small amount of free play between one key moving and then making contact with another, so you'll feel that slight delay which is either intentional or undesirable depending on the instrument or situation. On some instruments (Boehm system flutes) there should be no lost motion in the mechanism at all, but on other instruments (clarinets, bassoons, saxes and oboes) there has to be lost motion in certain places (clarinets with the least and oboes with the most) to ensure pads will be allowed to close where they're linked with other keys as eliminating lost motion can cause some pads to remain open.
"I have a old M2 M0120 and have some pitch problems mainly High E in the staff being sharp and the next note up F being flat.
Can you use the Screw 3 to lower the pitch on the E (lowering the D pad). But if I go too far I get lost of motion of the RH2 to F#.
If use the C# pad adjustment screw I can adjust it that in effect lowers the C key which Via low C key-RH2 adjustment can low the RH2 thus remove loss of motion play on the RH2 to F#?
The rest of the oboe is well adjusted in respect to Screws 1,2,4,5.
And do you know any ways to rising the pitch of the F at the same time being both forked or standard F?"
The reason I haven't replied sooner is because I don't want to suggest you do anything if there are some intonation issues as while some things can be remedied by adjusting the ventings, other things will need looking at in greater detail by someone who knows about voicing and tuning work and can diagnose and put right these things. If your oboe is all set up well and with the correct ventings and you're experiencing some notes being sharp or flat in one register and not another, then you need to take it to someone with plenty of experience to address these things as it can involve reducing, enlarging, undercutting and tapering of toneholes which is a black art. And sometimes it can be cured with a different reed, so best not to do anything if things are improved with a different reed. I had someone bring an oboe to me because of a wild keyed F fingering. That was resolved by closing down the F key, but then a week or so later they had problems with the keyed F fingering being stuffy when they were using a different reed.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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