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Re: Thumbplate/conservatoire 123 system

Author: Chris P
Date: 2016-06-09 11:42

Conservstoire 1-2-3 system is usually found on German spec instruments in addition to fully auto 8ves, extra spatula key for LH2, F resonance key (opens with the F key), a roller on the F key and low B-C link.

The problem with the 1-2-3 system is that putting ANY of the RH fingers down will raise the link between the joints so putting it at a much greater risk of being bent if you're not extra careful. Even closing the LH low B and Bb key will raise the link as they're linked to the low C key which in turn is linked to the LH2 (or mid) fingerplate. If it happens to have been converted to dual system (usually for UK players), then the thumbplate will keep the bar on the top joint held down at the upper end (so the Bb and C pads are open while the left thumb is off) and that will make assembly easier as the linkage at the tenon end of the top joint will be raised.

The 1-2-3 mechanism can be disengaged by backing off the adjusting screw next to the F# vent key (in between RH 1 and 2) or having the underside of the adjusting screw pip ground down to give clearance if need be. Similarly with the low B-C link - on Howarth instruments the adjusting screw can be backed right off to completely disengage it provided it has been fitted so there's a sufficient gap between the underside of the linkage and the lever on the low B key. On other makes where it's nearly fully engaged, then part of the low B-C link will need to be removed - easier to remove the small tab soldered to the side of the linkage lever on the low B key.

If you want it changed from fully automatic to semi auto, then that will be some expensive surgery to remove all the associated linkages and pillars and make the new 8ve keys (apart from the 1st 8ve rocker) - much easier to have a 2nd 8ve touchpiece fitted so you can use the 2nd 8ve key touch for 8ve leaps from A-C if you're used to semi auto 8ves and don't nudge the trill keys open instead. It will still be fully automatic (so you can't use harmonic fingerings for high A and Bb), but it will give you peace of mind when doing 8ve leaps at the top end. Also will make it easier if you use thumbplate fingerings as you'd hold the 2nd 8ve touch down while using your thumb for Bb and C on the thumbplate and rocking your thumb between the thumbplate and back 8ve isn't ideal.

Another thing some fully auto oboes have is the LH1 fingerplate is lowered by LH3 (via the long bridge from the LH3 fingerplate to the auto 8ve mechanism), but not fully closed by it, so you can lift LH1 off completely instead of rolling down to uncover the aperture for upper C#-Eb and lower altissimo. That too can be disengaged and a new adjusting screw and arm can be fitted to the LH1 key barrel so it engages against the joint giving it independence rather than being controlled by LH3.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2016-06-09 11:46)

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