 The Oboe BBoard
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Author: WoodwindOz
Date: 2011-02-27 03:49
To all those with experience in cork replacement...
With a household of various woodwind instruments and a host of students playing others, I find I need to replace tenon corks fairly regularly (and it seems our hot climate does not help matters). While I have the technique fairly well down pat (they certainly don't fall off in a hurry, so I must be doing something right!) I would like opinions as to the best adhesive to use. I have been using the Micro Pad and Cork cement as that's all I could find locally, and while it adheres well, it takes forever to dry (which when you use your instrument daily is not really helpful!) even if I allow it to 'go off' before I stick it on. It is also very messy, but I'm sure I won't be able to eliminate that problem all together!
Also, any other techniques for efficient tenon cork replacement are greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Rachel
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-02-27 05:49
You want an impact adhesive such as Evo-Stik or Bison - the type of adhesive used for glueing formica to work syrfaces which you coat both surfaces, wait for several minutes for the solvent to evaporate and then stick both surfaces together, working your way round so there aren't any trapped air pockets.
And it's pretty much ready to use once all stuck down but you can set it aside for 30 mins to an hour before sanding down to be on the safe side. I've usually left tenon corks for a while before working on them but haven't encountered any problems working on a freshly glued tenon or crook cork.
You can use this for key corks as well - remove the old key corks and adhesive, then degrease the key and apply the adhesive to both surfaces (a thin, even layer), let the adhesive become touch dry (slightly tacky when tested with a knuckle) and then press the corks in place on the keys and trim them. Any adhsive that's got where it shouldn't be can easily be removed by rubbing it and it'll peel or roll off.
Your best bet is a hardware store as they ought to have this type of adhesive for DIYers and tradesmen (usually not for sale to under 18s on account of the solvent) - and you're best getting it in tubes of around 30g rather than a tub.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: WoodwindOz
Date: 2011-02-27 06:54
Thanks once again for your expertise Chris!
You may not know this, but any idea what brands these would be sold as in Australia? I'm not exactly sure what I should ask for. Is it a simple contact adhesive?
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-02-27 07:35
I've no idea what brands are available on Australia, but if you do have a good hardware store with staff that know their stuff (which is a rarity nowadays), then they ought to be able to suggest the best kind of adhesive - one for glueing formica to chipboard or quite possibly the adhesive used for sticking cork tiles to walls with.
Basically it's a rubbery type adhesive that shoe repairers also use to glue soles on shoes with (ask your nearest shoe repair/key cutter) and one that both surfaces have to be coated and left to dry before bonding them together.
Don't get any water based versions as they're crap - use one with solvents in it as you don't have to wait for ages with them (go for the ones with all the warning labels on it). The older formulas contained toluene which has since been banned due to solvent abuse (and which is why it's not for sale to minors).
But don't use superglue (cyanoacrylate) for tenon corks as it's too brittle and difficult to remove from wood.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: OboeGoldCoast
Date: 2011-02-27 22:28
Hi Rachel
What Chris is saying in Austrailian terms is "Contact Adhesive". The brand I use is quick grip, and follow the instuctions on the tude. Make sure you do leave time for the glue to get touch dry befor putting the cork on. about 20 -40 mims.
I only buy the small tube once opened it can off in the tube after about 6 months or so.
Thanks
Nicholas
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Author: Mike Hopkins
Date: 2011-03-06 21:37
I can't possibly improve on the expertise of Chris.
I was working with a youth concert band today and was asked to fix a pad that had fallen out. Luckily I had my repair box with me and was able to use shellac to stick it back in. It was a low Bb vent so I put an elastic band around the key as it does not bond instantly then turned the bottom joint slightly to the side as no low Bb's were needed in the music played.
Other tips are , always carry a bit of blue tack for a very temporary repair., good on Sax Pads! I used it once on a gig. Also a piece of thin paper can be used once again as a temporary repair for loose clarinet/oboe joints and to hold sax mouthpieces on until you can get a proper repair done.
For loose cork joints, try a lighted match around the cork which will make it expand.
ALWAYS CARRY AN ELASTIC BAND if a spring breaks!!
mhopkins706@aol.com
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Author: RobinDesHautbois
Date: 2011-03-07 13:07
This might sound crazy, but for years my Lorée was playing with reed thread in addition to the tenon cork!
Until it was repaired by David Teitelbaum, replacing the tenon cork on the top joing had always been either too loose or too tight... I thought it was because of the synthetic upper joint. For the past 5 odd years, the cork was much too loose and had begun to crack.
Before that, I would supplement the tightness with cigarette paper, but now it was too much. I tightly and carefully wrapped one or two layers of reed thread which I kept sealed with heaps of cork grease. It really did the job well for years: sealed great because I could staccato the low Bb softly without strife.
Robin Tropper
M.A.Sc., B.Mus., B.Ed.
http://RobinDesHautbois.blogspot.ca/music
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2011-03-07 15:03
A note of caution about using elastic bands and silver plated keywork and instruments - by all means do use them to get you out of trouble if you have no other choice, but don't leave them on for any longer than you need to.
Remove them at the earliest opportunity as the acid in the rubber will tarnish and ultimately damage the silver plate at the areas of contact.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: ohsuzan
Date: 2011-03-07 17:14
I solve the problem that Chris cites (tarnish from rubber bands) by keeping a few elastic bands intended for hair care in my gig bag. The are fabric-covered, and do not harm the finish.
I actually prefer the very small ones intended for use on the ponytails and hairbraids of small children, but the big ones will work, too.
Susan
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Author: mschmidt
Date: 2011-03-08 01:59
My guess is that it is the sulfur and/or sulfur compounds used for vulcanisation of the rubber which causes the tarnishing.
Mike
Still an Amateur, but not really middle-aged anymore
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