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Re: Crack Prevention

Author: JRC
Date: 2010-11-19 14:21

I heard about and read about conflicting theories, testimonials, stories about oiling, and using damp-it and such. I even read that oiling inside only would cause cracking, then I read that oiling outside is big no-no. There is man in Colorado who offers service to immersing the entire wood in a magic portion and the old wood will come alive as a teenage virgin. Using some sort of treatment appears to be much more soothing to minds than to Granadila woods. Either way, it does help something.

I can only believe what I know to be true by observing the facts and supported by the laws of physics and other established sciences as far as a physical things are concerned. The Value judgments on timbre quality and musical substance are definitely beyond science. So we will not go there. The woods are definitely physical thing. Here are few facts that I know:

(1) Some woods change their surface texture with age. They seem to become dry and show more fibrous grains with wrinkles. I could see that the acoustic properties of the surface would change because of that. I have not looked into how but I would not be surprised that would cause the timbre and intonation changes, but not sure about overall pitch change (but it could). Even though the wood did not crack, such condition may not be what any one wish an oboe to become.

(2) Some even older woods still maintain shiny surface especially under the key work where it does not have opportunities to be touched much. And smooth surfaces inside the bore. It appears to indicate two things. (a) not rubbing on the surface tends to preserve the wood surface, and (b) The choice of wood by the manufacturer may have influence over aging characteristics. That may be where (the region) the wood came from or part of the wood that particular piece came from (closer to the roots, center, or ..). I actually played on an over 100 years old oboe that played in tune with good intonation. And saw all dried up looking oboe that was only 40 years old that definitely played way too sharp and intonation was out of balance and sounded bright and reedy (but some new oboes sounded bright and reedy too).

(3) Whatever oil or waxy substance one applies on the surface an oboe must be aware of the following scientific consequences.

(a) Some will dry and leave film like Thompson's water treatment. It will change the dimension of the bore. I am not sure it is such good idea.

(b) Some will eventually dry and change the PH (I think they turn acid but you should ask a chemist to be sure). Most animal oil and even some vegetable oil will do that (you should also ask a chemist if this is true). So those anti-oxidant claiming oils may be better. Actually Mobile-1 synthetic oil would be more stable than any of those but I am not sure that would be a wise move. Lanolin may be even better than the most because it is not oil, but sort of wax. It would not dry as quickly or would change as easily, chemically.

(c) Then there is a philosophical question. Do we want the oil to be absorbed or do we just want to paint the surface? Granadila wood is very dense and would not absorb much even if it did. But at some level it may. Then one would want this to be absorbed and not evaporate for a very long time. That is assuming it does not change the acoustic properties of the inner surface. Actually I heard a claim that it would darken the timbre but I have not experienced it personally. Then, one would want the oil to have good absorbing property. I do not know light and watery texture of the oil should help the absorbing property or not. But "people" seem to think that (from the recommendations I have heard). Perhaps that is the origin of "light almond oil". Then, why not grape seed oil? That is also well advertised anti-oxidant oil that is very light even lighter than the light almond oil. On the other hand, why not just paint the surface to prevent any original moisture from the wood to escape out and any contaminants to penetrate into the wood? Lanolin may not be a bad candidate because it is pretty light as a wax goes, so one could come up with a technique to apply on the surface, hopefully one molecule thick. It may even be absorbed into the wood and making a "permanent seal".

In conclusion, I am not convinced in one way or another if oiling would prevent crack. But it certainly makes people feel better about it. I would recommend keeping clean is always definitely good thing to do. But some believe rubbing would make the wood to wear out. We should all be so lucky that we could keep an oboe long enough to worry about that. Make sure your swabs are made of fluffy absorbing material that is not so tight fit and hope for the best.

Good oiling!!

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Crack Prevention new

RobinDesHautbois

2010-11-18 10:31