The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: Erez Katz
Date: 2025-08-24 04:46
I picked up an Eb clarinet and I realize that my left ring finger constantly bumps into it.
I am not referring to the optional left pinky lever that is a custom addition in higher end models in the lower tenon.
Its the upper tenon right between the D and C vents.
It is also to lesser extent an annoyance with my C clarinet
I am trying to think when I ever needed that key and can't think of one.... maybe as a pitch correction in very specific cases.
Do you ever use it?
Any reason not to just remove it an plug that vent?
Post Edited (2025-08-24 05:07)
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-08-24 06:38
Erez, IMHO there are enough places in music where one may need to move quickly from to to such that the is taken chromatically, and as a result, the before it may best be taken chromatically as well, with the very key you look to part ways with.
Sure, you could roll your right index finger up from a taken with the side key to then voice an in this scenario, or even effect an with a fork fingering, or play the with just the left pointer finger non-chromatically, but all this said I might consider practice that helps you get use to not hitting this key you wish to remove.
It's funny you refer to the optional left pinky lever as it too was a key, when I first played a clarinet equipped with one that took about two weeks to not accidentally hit, but then when I got use to it I stopped accidentally hitting it and it does, like the key you wish to remove, come in handy at times.
Here's another example. On page 14 of Bearman III, when tasked with playing interrupted scales in D b major you'll be tasked with playing , and quickly in a row. Playing the with that chromatic key is bound to be easier than sliding your right index finger down one key on the side from the chromatic (or playing a fork fingered ) or playing that with the left index finger only, so that you can take the with the side key, which seems prone to error to me.
Of course you have to do though what you think is best and if the key has to go, see if you can find a repairman with a spare one of those keys so the actuating mechanism can be filed away.
In my opinion that chromatic key is more important than the same sliver key for the right hand.
Alternatively maybe the key can be removed and a rubber stopper of the right size placed (and maybe glued) in the tone hole not unlike such stoppers are used at ends of a clarinet section when testing for leaks with a magnehelic machine.
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Author: graham
Date: 2025-08-24 16:18
I wouldn’t attempt eleventh bar of letter E in the last movement of the Coleridge Taylor Quintet using the rh side key. The lh banana key seems much better in this passage.
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Author: paulyb
Date: 2025-08-24 18:40
I've had the same problem with Eb clarinet. As a temporary measure you can carve a piece of eraser and wedge it (gently) under the key arm to prevent it from opening. This is a completely reversible way of stopping the key from opening while you assess whether you really need it or not.
You can also take the key off and stop the tone hole with putty (blu tac or similar) - not beautiful but does the job and again totally reversible.
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Author: Chris_C ★2017
Date: 2025-08-24 19:09
I have the same problem with my fairly large fingers. As I understyand it, Artie Shaw had this key removed on all his clarinets, so in the hope that it would make me play like him, I've blocked it off on mine. A tech removed the key and inserted a cork plug on my Selmer 9 Bb, and on my others (Bb/Eb/alto) I've done the cork-wedge-under-the-key approach.
Of course, some players use it a lot, but not me...
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Author: Erez Katz
Date: 2025-08-24 20:51
It never occurred to use it as an E# fingering... Will check thr intonation.
The suggestion of stopping it with a piece of rubber is an excellent stop gap measure- thank you!
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2025-08-24 21:25
I've removed this key even from Bb clarinets for several people, with injuries and/or particularly wide fingers. I usually just plug it with a cork plug, easily reversible. The most important part for making it easily reversible is that the player doesn't lose the key... though I've never had anyone ask me to re-install it...
If you remove it, make sure to remove the spring (or the post with the spring) so you don't constantly stab yourself...
I haven't removed this key from my clarinet, but in SecondTry's examples I would simply use the regular fingerings (right side Eb and first finger Gb). Maybe only if it's a very fast repeating pattern but even then not sure.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-24 21:27
I've never used that key and only know fewer than a handful of people who do use it - most of which learnt playing clarinet with the Otto Langley tutor or came from a simple/Albert system background.
I keep the key in place on my clarinets but plug up the tonehole with a couple of cork pads, so it won't cause any grief if accidentally caught and can be reinstated by simply popping those cork pads out.
On full Boehms or other clarinets with the LH forked Eb/Bb mechanism, the touchpiece prevents the LH2 ring key linkage from hitting the deck which makes assembly easier as the linkage cork has less chance of being caught on the linkage (even though I always hold the LH ring keys down during assembly).
On my bass and basset horn (both Buffet Prestiges) I've completely removed the key and pillars and blanked off the holes so the key and pillars can always be refitted.
And besides, I have forked Eb/Bb, side Eb/Bb and long Bb fingerings on all my clarinets which are more useful fingerings to me and less awkward to use than that cross/LH3 Eb/Bb key - even on the plastic Yamaha YCL-24 I fitted the LH Forked Eb/Bb mechanism to.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-08-24 21:30
Erez Katz wrote:
> It never occurred to use it as an E# fingering... Will check
> thr intonation.
>
> The suggestion of stopping it with a piece of rubber is an
> excellent stop gap measure- thank you!
Hi Erez:
As I cannot find a reference above to someone using this key to sharpen an E i.e. .....
one way of interpreting your E# notation above, I am wondering if you are referring to using the key to play D# i.e. . If so, I hold the opinion that to be able to do the classic advanced etudes of the instrument at reasonable speed and accuracy--and some players may not need this on the Eb instrument--that the key you mention just isn't optional. It's needed to allow other chromatic fingerings, as I mentioned, that facilitate tricky passages, like trilling between (first) and , after playing a : all sharp notes here best done with chromatic fingerings IMHO. (That's probably not the best example as you could take the initial of the trill with the left index finger if it sounds close enough to the the chromatic on your Eb to continue the trill thereafter, but you get my point I hope.)
That said, I am nothing but pragmatic, and appreciate that most etude work is done on the Bb clarinet (or your clarinet of regular use e.g. Bass) and that the particularly small size of the Eb instrument, coupled with it normally not being most player's regular instrument and particularly challenging for those with large fingers, could find reason to remove the key you mention.
If it's just getting in the way due to you mis-fingering, not for anatomical reasons, I do recommend practice as the solution here. 
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Author: A Brady
Date: 2025-08-24 23:57
I have occasionally used the LH E Flat/B Flat lever if the RH option has water under the pad. Also in certain trills.
The NYC repairman Jimmy Yan (RIP) told me that Stanley Drucker had him remove the LH E Flat/low A Flat lever when he would buy a new Buffet. I find this key useful, but to each his own, and Drucker became a virtuoso without it obviously.
AB
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-25 00:38
If you do use this key and find it gets in the way (especially on Eb clarinet where finger space is limited), then you can always have the touchpiece shortened and reshaped to a stub so you're not catching it with the sides of LH fingers 2 and 3, but it's still there if you need to use it. Likewise with the indispensable RH3 B/F# 'sliver' key as well as having the throat A touchpiece shortened if you keep catching it with LH1.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-08-25 01:36
A Brady wrote:
> I have occasionally used the LH E Flat/B Flat lever if the RH
> option has water under the pad. Also in certain trills.
>
> The NYC repairman Jimmy Yan (RIP) told me that Stanley Drucker
> had him remove the LH E Flat/low A Flat lever when he would buy
> a new Buffet. I find this key useful, but to each his own, and
> Drucker became a virtuoso without it obviously.
>
All true. More color commentary. Drucker played an R13 for most of his career, which is absent this key.
Towards the end of this career, and with problems sourcing good Grenadilla, Buffet started using the wood quality of its Golden Era R13s on its Festivals (and up), using the less desirable stuff on the R13.
So Francois Kloc of Buffet put Drucker in a Festival, which has this key, that served no purpose for Drucker, no doubt at that point in his career probably already knowing every place in the classical literature that required a mid-note pinky swap or slide to make sure he never, for example, found himself playing a left pinky immediately before a were the left pinky is not optional....
unless you have one of those dodads that attaches to the G#/C# lever that allows it to be actuated with the right index finger, like Cannonball has stock https://www.cannonballmusic.com/clarinets.php or Stephen Fox sells as an attachment http://www.sfoxclarinets.com/Accessories.html#clar%20acc (scroll down to see the "R1 C#/G# touchpiece")
...or just put the clarinet between your knees (lol) and do like Stephen Williamson does here https://youtu.be/r4teoC3OnEg?si=t_7EAar5m8FhctCP&t=30!
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-25 02:13
Artie Shaw never used the LH3 Eb/Bb key either if his 'Gramercy Five' Buffet clarinet was anything to go by as the key and pillars were removed completely and all the holes were filled in.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: 2cekce ★2017
Date: 2025-08-25 04:58
I use this key roughly 90% of the time on all my clarinets Eb, C and Bb. not sure why Its just easier and faster for me to get at that key. I'm aware that it's a chromatic fingering so over the years just got used to using it. On my full boehm I use the forked fingering a lot. It's always been problematic for me to use the standard fingering of side key with right hand, so I use it just not as much. I btw I do have large hands so I've learned to adjust accordingly when switching to Eb or C.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2025-08-25 09:05
I forgot to add that I actually use it occasionally for a tone/tuning trill, holding one of the Eb/Bb keys and trilling with the other.
>> This certainly did the trick. <<
I've seen a couple of people do this and it can work fine. In some cases they had issues with it being even more annoying on their fingers rubbing on it and/or it falling off suddenly. Otherwise it's as good as any solution.
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Author: Philip Caron
Date: 2025-08-25 14:45
I gather that some people must use the side key in chromatic runs and what, one-and-one to trill low Eb-E? Is that right? I'm kinda amazed.
One-and-one Eb is out of tune on both my R13's. I could probably practice in the side-key for chromatic runs, but that seems inherently trickier, and it's not necessary. But then, I haven't played an Eb clarinet.
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Author: ebonite
Date: 2025-08-25 14:48
If you are using A+side key for the throat Bb, and you have to slur down to Eb, then the sliver key allows you to slur down more easily.
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-08-25 20:54
Erez Katz wrote:
> This certainly did the trick.
(Erez is referring to a device placed between the clarinet and the chromatic key of this thread in question preventing the key from being actuated if touched. I think it's a piece of a flat pencil eraser.)
Curious: would this not prevent the key from getting in the way, which is what I thought was the original concern in its presence?
Clearly of course the fix prevents the key from being actuated, perhaps 1/2 the battle. 
Post Edited (2025-08-25 20:55)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-25 21:14
You can always wedge it shut, but that's only going to compress the pad.
The BEST thing to do is plug up the tonehole - no two ways about it. That way the pad isn't having the life squeezed out of it which will only cause a leak and it's a simple case of pushing out the cork plugs in the tonehole to reinstate the use of that key.
I've said tis before and I will continue to say this until my dying day, so do yourselves a favour and plug up the tonehole instead of fart-arsing about wedging the key shut which is just a temporary and ultimately more harmful and costly measure.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Erez Katz
Date: 2025-08-26 01:02
Chris P wrote:
> You can always wedge it shut, but that's only going to compress
> the pad.
>
> The BEST thing to do is plug up the tonehole - no two ways
> about it. That way the pad isn't having the life squeezed out
> of it which will only cause a leak and it's a simple case of
> pushing out the cork plugs in the tonehole to reinstate the use
> of that key.
>
> I've said tis before and I will continue to say this until my
> dying day, so do yourselves a favour and plug up the tonehole
> instead of fart-arsing about wedging the key shut which is just
> a temporary and ultimately more harmful and costly measure.
>
I agree that it is going to mess the pad. How do you suggest I plug the the tonehole?
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-08-26 01:12
Does a wedge like the O.P. placed between the clarinet and the key necessarily have to compress the key's pad more than its spring already does? Can't it just prevent the key from opening?
I'd think some thin in width cork with an adhesive side attached to the clarinet, whose thickness is just proud of the distance between the clarinet and this key in the closed position might not wear down the key's pad. Maybe not.
Regardless, O.P., some rubber stoppers of various sizes:
https://tinyurl.com/msbxf476
I'd choose one that is NOT proud of the bore of the instrument when installed.
Post Edited (2025-08-26 01:13)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-26 01:58
I use a couple of cork pads around 0.5mm to 1.0mm wider than the Eb/Bb tonehole and push them into the tonehole with a wooden or plastic rod to fill it in almost to the full thickness, pushing the 2nd one in so it's sat just below the crown of the bedplace so the pad can still seat against the tonehole. The one nearest to the bore won't intrude as the wall thickness is around 7-8mm thick. One cork pad will do, but two cork pads will make double sure it's plugged up.
Even if the plug does slightly intrude into the bore, you have other intrusions in the bore anyway depending on the clarinet - speaker tube and thumb tube are the usual two intrusions, then the metal E/B vent bush on Selmer Privileges and the C#/G# plastic bush on B&H 1010s, so another slight intrusion isn't going to cause any problems should that happen. You can always scallop the lower of the two pads to make it the same radius as the bore should you feel the need to. Remember that a clarinet isn't a perfect instrument by any means - never has been and never will be - it's a whole load of compromises in one.
If you need to reinstate a plugged up tonehole, then remove the key, push the plug into the bore and replace the key.
The other problem with wedging the key closed is when the pad compresses, the pad can still crack open if the key is nudged. If the wedge is only just being held in with luck, the pad can still be cracked open if it's lightly closed and wedging it in lightly is a bit of a pointless exercise if it's only holding the key closed by the same pressure as the spring. Wedging the key down will also damage or tear off the key cork.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2025-08-26 07:37
>> I gather that some people must use the side key in chromatic runs and what, one-and-one to trill low Eb-E? Is that right? I'm kinda amazed. <<
These are two completely separate things.
The former, yes and it's very... normal. Many players do that.
The latter, only in very specific cases, usually only in e.g. ascending G# D# E that is very fast. I would probably still use the side key for that, unless it's a very fast repeating pattern or something like that.
Post Edited (2025-08-26 18:05)
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Author: Philip Caron
Date: 2025-08-26 16:11
Hi clarnibass. "People must use the side key in chromatic runs" "it's very... normal".
I believe you, yet my surprise continues. I practice that rh key every day in various note combinations, though not that one. It seems like a bigger move to reach and actuate that key than the one to reach and actuate the lh key, and the, or my, tendency is to move the rh out of position to do it.
It's even more of a reach to use the two rh keys for throat F#, and I'm starting to consider using the lh index fingering for that in all contexts, maybe excepting trills.
Re the Eb one-and-one, I avoid it due to intonation & its fuzzy sound.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-26 18:48
There's a good reason why the xoo|xoo fingering is usually called 'long Bb' and not 'long Eb' as it's best used for a convenient upper Bb (eg. an F-Bb or F#-A# slur or tremolo) given the fact it's often too sharp as an alternative Eb fingering, save some places if it's convenient and not all that noticeable (if it's in a fast passage), or on some larger clarinets where it will be better in tune than on soprano clarinets.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: SecondTry
Date: 2025-08-26 19:37
I completely get how the / sliver key could get in the way, particular for people with larger fingers, and particularly on a smaller Eb clarinet.
But that said, and of course this is just my opinion stated in different form from above, I simply don't know how one develops classic technique using the advanced study books of our craft, playing at reasonable fast speeds without interjecting unwanted notes between two desired ones, without using this key instead of the side one to voice , when going to an that quickly proceeds an , or coming from an that quickly follows an such that the use of the chromatic fingering is warranted.
I get that many players don't train this way or play music that requires this key, but for those trained in the classic etude books, and again this is just my opinion, I don't know how they do without it.
This need is all more pronounced is the and are engaged in a trill using the chromatic , as alternatively vacillating between the left thumb and index finger to trill between these notes is awkward, and prone to unwanted notes, and use of chromatic prior to after an becomes a trickly right index finger slide on the side trill keys, or a forked (with the intonation issues Chris raised) if the chromatic isn't used.
Cleary, YMMV depending upon what you play and who you train[ed].
Post Edited (2025-08-26 19:39)
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2025-08-26 20:29
On B&H Imperial basses, the E/B vent key (the one directly underneath and held closed by the LH2 fingerplate) is linked with an adjusting screw clutch to the LH1 fingerplate to hold it down so you can lift LH1 off instead of rolling when playing in the altissimo register (just as you'd do on soprano clarinet).
Having this linkage also means you can play a B-D#-F# while holding down RH2 and frees up LH1 when playing an F# with RH1 or 2 only. I had this same linkage/clutch fitted to my Prestige bass and it definitely made something much easier than not having it, but I can't remember what piece that was in. And it can be fully disengaged by backing off the adjusting screw so the LH1 fingerplate can fully open while LH2 (or RH fingers 1 or 2) are held down.
https://www.woodwindforum.com/clarinetperfection/galleryclar/Keywork/CP2/04.jpg
And yeah I'm sure the purists who believe the regular, unadulterated, factory standard Boehm system is the absolute pinnacle of clarinet development and shouldn't be sullied by any add-ons will lose their doo-doo over such a contraption, but I don't care - if it makes things easier for those that want it, then that's all that matters.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
Independent Woodwind Repairer
Single and Double Reed Specialist
Oboes, Clarinets and Saxes
NOT A MEMBER OF N.A.M.I.R.
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: Erez Katz
Date: 2025-08-26 21:38
Chris P wrote:
> On B&H Imperial basses, the E/B vent key (the one directly
> underneath and held closed by the LH2 fingerplate) is linked
> with an adjusting screw clutch to the LH1 fingerplate to hold
> it down so you can lift LH1 off instead of rolling when playing
> in the altissimo register (just as you'd do on soprano
> clarinet).
>
> Having this linkage also means you can play a B-D#-F# while
> holding down RH2 and frees up LH1 when playing an F# with RH1
> or 2 only. I had this same linkage/clutch fitted to my Prestige
> bass and it definitely made something much easier than not
> having it, but I can't remember what piece that was in. And it
> can be fully disengaged by backing off the adjusting screw so
> the LH1 fingerplate can fully open while LH2 (or RH fingers 1
> or 2) are held down.
>
> https://www.woodwindforum.com/clarinetperfection/galleryclar/Keywork/CP2/04.jpg
>
> And yeah I'm sure the purists who believe the regular,
> unadulterated, factory standard Boehm system is the absolute
> pinnacle of clarinet development and shouldn't be sullied by
> any add-ons will lose their doo-doo over such a contraption,
> but I don't care - if it makes things easier for those that
> want it, then that's all that matters.
>
A clarinet is a piece of equipment. Nothing more and nothing less. It needs to serve the player. If we can find a way to play through the nose such it sounds better - even better
Post Edited (2025-08-26 23:02)
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Author: graham
Date: 2025-08-26 23:54
I’ve known many clarinettists over the years and can only recall one who had that tonehole plugged. I can only think of one other who said they never used that fingering. I use it quite a bit but I acknowledge that most people use the side key by preference.
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