 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: MarkW61
Date: 2024-09-10 13:27
Hi,
I have a pair of Eaton Elite clarinets that are about 30 years old(both with leather pads), recently I have found that I have the upper joint A/G# and E (the one under the A key) sticking. I cleaned them best I could without dismantling the instrument but eventually took them to a local repairer who cleaned them. The result has improved them(on both instruments) but I'm not particularly happy as I still think there is sticking.
My question is what would be a good alternative to leather in this position on the instrument? I have read that cork could be an option but some say that they can produce a 'popping' sound due to the hard surface.
I'm reluctant to use traditional white 'fish' pads as the pair of Buffet clarinets I have was attacked by some sort of insect and destroyed half the pads on the instrument. Perhaps just new leather pads?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Author: JTJC
Date: 2024-09-10 14:53
Peter Eaton also uses black rubber pads on his instruments, with resonators on the larger ones. Bit like Superpads. They last forever, but you'd need to go to him, because I don't think he sells them. No harm asking though.
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Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2024-09-10 15:27
Two great options are the Valentino Masters and the Quartz Resonance Pads (known more as QRP). The Quartz resonance pads are super silent (almost scary) if that's a requirement.
.............Paul Aviles
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Author: MarkW61
Date: 2024-09-10 15:48
In reply to JTJC:
Mine are too old for those I think. He did service them about three years ago but there was no offer of improving the existing pads. He is too far away for me to drop them in and ask if he would fit them and as you say I doubt he would sell any.
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Author: MarkW61
Date: 2024-09-10 15:51
Paul,
I will enquire with the repairer I use whether either of those pads are an option through them, they might not be keen on a special order of pads as I get the impression that they don't work on a lot of top end instruments.
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Author: ruben
Date: 2024-09-11 09:19
I've always used cork pads for the upper body; leather for the big holes of the one down below. Cork seals very well and lasts forever, provided you play often enough , which keeps them from getting too dry. The down side: they're a bit noisier than other pads.
rubengreenbergparisfrance@gmail.com
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Author: MarkW61
Date: 2024-09-11 14:45
I think I will probably end up using cork as the repairer will definitely have them but as Paul suggested the QRP could be the best option.
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2024-09-11 20:30
I prefer to use cork pads on the open G vent (the one directly under the throat A touchpiece connected to the LH1 ring key) and use either leather or synthetic pads on the throat G# and A pads, although there's no harm in cork padding everything except the largest four pads on the lower joint provided all the toneholes have been made perfect - you can't just bung in cork pads without prepping both the pads and the toneholes otherwise they'll leak like sieves.
Most leather pads have a plastic coating to make them both waterproof and airtight, but that in turn often makes them sticky and sometimes the plastic coating will stick fast to the tonehole and come away from the leather.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: MarkW61
Date: 2024-09-12 12:45
Hi Chris,
I think that is probably the best solution under the circumstances.
Thank you for all suggestions, it is good to have the knowledge for further pad replacements.
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