 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: escher
Date: 2023-05-08 20:06
Good day all.
I'm toying with an idea for a project... depends on if I can get the parts.
My question is this - when one refers to the R13 and its namesake Polycylindrical bore. I have inferred that this primarily is in reference to the upper joint - correct?
I have a line on a vintage upper BC-20 joint sans keywork... for basically nothing. My thoughts are to purchase a similar vintage Evette-Schaeffer for the top joint keywork. And then use a similar vintage ES or Buffet lower joint. But my primary question is if the bottom joint is any different bore wise between the BC-20 and a standard R13 or Evette-Schaeffer bottom joint. For that matter - possibly even a "Pre-R13" bottom joint.
I realize this could be a potential nightmare for tuning, etc... I'm simply considering it out of curiosity, and because these are fun horns to work on for me.
Thoughts?
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2023-05-08 21:09
I think with the amount of work you would have to put into it just to get an instrument that may not play very well, it's probably not worth it. The biggest problem is the key work. Clarinets of this era were still largely handmade and the keys were matched to the joint. As an example of this I once had 2 1970s Buffet alto clarinets that were only 6 serial numbers apart. I had the idea to swap the best keys onto the instrument with no cracks in order to end up with one instrument in very good condition. Unfortunately I soon found out that every key was ever so slightly different, to the point where major cutting and soldering would be required to swap keys.
Even if the keys fit perfectly the fact that the instrument will have a lower quality barrel, bell and upper joint will minimize the benefit of the BC20 upper joint to an extent. The E&S clarinets are great intermediate level instruments but they lack the same undercutting and fine tuning of the professional models, at least the ones I've worked on. To solve this you could try and source a better barrel and bell and undercut the tone holes on the lower joint but at that point you would have probably spend so much time and money on the instrument that simply refurbishing a vintage R13 might be a better option.
I think you should still grab the joint and hold onto it should you ever come across a BC20 with a crack or another tech needing a joint, but I think there are better project instruments out there.
-JDbassplayer
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Author: escher
Date: 2023-05-08 21:33
Yep - I hear you completely. The seller still has the joint, so I'm going to take it... he may also have a lower - if it's for a similar price, I'll take it as well.
I had forgotten about the hand fitting of the keywork... Now - does that mean I'm not going to be a complete masochist and give it a try anyways? lol...
And as to time and money... I've thrown so much money at projects in the past... just for the fun of it. If I was to truly look at "hobbies" from a financial standpoint, I'd run away screaming...
It's never about the money for me, it's about the journey. I've also restored some guitars, High end vintage speakers (I once replaced the voice coils on a set of Magnepan's - that was a serious nightmare), firearms, Lionel Trains, etc.... I'm a tinkerer.. It's just what I do.
For me its more of a - "Is it theoretically possible, outside of casting my own keywork, to make a nice playing instrument?" Question.. If it takes a year or two and a few hundred here, a few hundred there... as long as I had fun - its all good!
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