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Re: Is this normal adjustment?

Author: Chris P
Date: 2023-02-23 15:29
Attachment: tenoncork2.png (1042k)
Attachment: P5140001.JPG (683k)

I put a stopper cork under the RH2 ring key linkage to keep it off the deck when the joints are separated, but not to diminish the venting when the joints are assembled as the LH2 pad (the E/B vent) should have plenty of venting which is determined by the venting of the RH ring keys. If there's not enough venting, your lower register E (xoo|ooo) will be stuffy and chances are the C (xxx|ooo) will be stuffy as well.

Some clarinets have a stopper foot formed on the LH2 ring key linkage (eg. Schreiber/Buffet B12 to E12 and Selmer USA/Bundy/Buescher/Signet clarinets) to keep it raised off the deck to facilitate assembly. Most don't and it's not a difficult thing to fit - I usually glue on a 4mm diameter cork disc of the required thickness to the underside of the linkage so there's a small but noticeable gap under it when the joints are assembled and correctly lined up.

Some repairers seem to think the lower edge of the ring keys should never go above the height of the tonehole chimneys when they're released, but that depends on the angle you're looking at them from, the thickness and inside shape of the rings and also how much venting there is - chances are ring keys that don't open high enough won't have enough venting and you'll get a stuffy lower register C and E. More venting is always better than not having enough venting.

It should also be normal practice to hold down the LH2 ring key (along with the throat A key as that will be good practice when you play bass clarinet) during assembly to prevent the linkage between the joints getting mashed up which will chew up the silencing material at best or bend the linkage or even break it off at worst.

See attachments.

Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.

Post Edited (2023-02-23 16:21)

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