 The Clarinet BBoard
|
Author: ebonite
Date: 2023-02-20 16:28
Does anybody have recommendations for silencing material for the linkage on an Acton vent? I need something to go on the arm that contacts the adjusting screw in the version of the mechanism that was fitted to the 1970s/80s Boosey and Hawkes 1010. The two parts of the mechanism move on different axes, so there is some sliding between them.
Would ultra-suede be a good choice?
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Paul Aviles
Date: 2023-02-20 17:18
You made me look at my "80s" 1010s. There is still cork on mine. I think though that because the action is really ONLY sliding (the key doesn't slam down on the lever for any reason) it may be best to use teflon to give your lever protection from the adjustment screw and a bit more "slideyness."
...............Paul Aviles
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2023-02-20 17:46
A nylon tipped adjusting screw is best - likewise with the throat G#-A adjusting screw. Make sure the nylon tip has been nicely domed instead of being left square or cut at a wonky angle as that will make the action feel lumpy and won't allow for good adjustment.
The Acton vent is fully engaged with the linkage arm at all times, so you don't need any other type of silencing material glued to the top side of the linkage arm (and cork is by far the worst choice), only the felt or ultrasuede glued to the underside of it so it won't clatter against the body when you release RH1.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
Post Edited (2023-02-25 22:42)
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
Author: Chris P
Date: 2023-02-21 03:55
Also on 1010s and Peter Eaton clarinets with that arrangement of having no crow's foot, the low E/B-F/C adjusting screw should be replaced with one with a much larger diameter domed tip where it makes contact with the F/C cup arm. They can be made with a regular adjusting screw with the head filed down (in a bench motor) and formed into a gentle dome, then the slot cut into what was the tip and then screwed in from the underside of the adjusting screw pip. You'll have to glue a disc of tech cork coated with graphite or tech cork laminated with thin a layer of teflon onto the top of the pad cup where the adjusting screw makes contact.
Similarly, the F#/C#-F/C sliding linkage on them can have a nylon tipped adjusting screw fitted to the linkage on the back of the RH F/C key to make the adjustment much easier. Find the point of contact on the underside of the linkage, then drill through and tap it to accept an adjusting screw.
In both cases, an M2x0.4 adjusting screw can be used - you'll have to tap out the adjusting screw pips accordingly.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
|
|
Reply To Message
|
|
The Clarinet Pages
|
 |
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
.jpg){kind=small}
