 The Clarinet BBoard
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Author: m1964
Date: 2021-02-08 23:47
Hi all,
I need an advice/help with restoring/overhauling a Selmer 10 (W-series).
It looked a little tired but the wood and metal seemed to be in decent shape.
The clarinet appeared to have original pads and it looks like no one worked on it before me.
It came apart relatively easy.
However, when I started polishing the keys, I encountered a problem.
At first, I tried using tooth paste which worked well on silver-plated keys but did not do much on the nickel-plated keys from Selmer.
After that, I tried Brasso that I use for silverware polishing.
Brasso does not smell good and definitely has some strong chemicals in it, but still it would not remove the oxidation completely from the keys. The key cups appear very dull and I could not clean them up.
Is there a more effective way of polishing keys on this Selmer? Should I try some buffing discs?
I do not have a rotary tool, but I do have a cordless drill and a cordless driver I can attach the discs to.
Should I try to use a polishing paste like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-lb-green-polish-compound-96778.html ?
Thanks
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Author: mmichel
Date: 2021-02-10 04:19
Older Selmers (i.e., Centered Tone and earlier) have solid nickel-silver keys, which is great because you don't need to worry about breaking through the plating when polishing them mechanically (i.e., with a buffing wheel).
I'm not sure when they stopped having solid nickel-silver, but I'm pretty confident it was before the Series 10s. Unless you're certain the keys are solid nickel-silver, you should probably avoid using a mechanical polishing method (especially using a power tool) because you might break through the plating, exposing the underlying brass.
If the keys are actually nickel-plated, then the Brasso should work. If they are silver-plated (as some old Selmers were) then using Brasso is a really bad idea. Instead, you should use a proper silver polish (e.g., like Weiman's).
If you do nevertheless choose to use a buffing wheel, you should probably use the finest polishing compound available (which is usually colored red).
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Author: jdbassplayer
Date: 2021-02-10 05:41
Get some Mother's polish, they sell it at Walmart and most auto parts stores. Works way better than Brasso.
-Jdbassplayer
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Author: Matt74
Date: 2021-02-10 06:33
I would buy some good compound from a jeweler’s supply, or somewhere like that. It’s not expensive. Some lightly oxidized nickel keys you can use Flitz or Wenol on, but buffing is best.
Green on a 4” stitched disk will work best. I’m sure you can use those little dremel polishing disks too. White ROUGE will work (some whites are too rough for a mirror polish, but most are ok). Red will probably work, but may take longer - you can use it after white for a nice finish (on a new buff). You can melt the compound with a torch or lighter and smear it on a rag and do it by hand, but it takes forever. Be really careful not to bend the keys by getting them caught (or having them fly across the room), and watch out for springs. Measure and note the thickness of the foot corks (nearest 0.5 mm) - you will need to change them, but it gives you a starting place.
Re-padding may be harder than you think, but it’s possible with patience.
- Matthew Simington
Post Edited (2021-02-10 06:37)
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Author: m1964
Date: 2021-02-10 07:11
Thanks a lot to everyone for you replies.
I just "found" a small container of Dremel brand polishing compound in my garage. Never used it. I will get a rotary tool (probably corded Dremel, maybe cordless which is more expensive).
I am going to test the compound using the rotary tool on a surface that is not visible like on the underside of one of the right pinky keys.
Even if I cut through the finish, it would not be visible.
The keys are not scratched, but look oxidized.
I will report back after I am done.
I did re-pad on a few instruments, this one should not be too bad because the tone holes appear to be in decent shape, without any major damage.
I want it done right because I might keep this clarinet. I play Buffet, never tried a professional level Selmer except one time I re-padded a CT for a band mate, and it was so easy blowing compared to my R-13, esp. in high altissimo.
Did not produce the same tone/sound as my R-13 though, but was very easy to play and felt good under the fingers.
Again, thanks
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Author: Chris P
Date: 2021-02-10 13:22
Tarnished/grey nickel plate is best machine polished if you want to restore it to a bright shine. Most liquid or paste metal polishes will take a lot of elbow grease to remove the tarnish from nickel plate compared to silver or unplated nickel silver which are much easier to polish to a bright shine due to how soft those metals are by comparison to the extremely hard nickel plate.
Former oboe finisher
Howarth of London
1998 - 2010
The opinions I express are my own.
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Author: clarnibass
Date: 2021-02-10 15:02
I assume "solid" above meant "unplated".
As mentioned above, silver and silver plating are easiest to polish. I guess tooth paste varies in how aggressive it is, but it is often too aggressive to use on silver.
Brass and nickel silver (unplated) take a little more effort, but it at least needs to show it's working after a little bit of time with Brasso or other polish. If it does work, but some of the tarnished/corroded parts remain, maybe they are just deep enough that it needs a lot more time.
Nickel plating is hardest by far and pretty hard to polish by hand.
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Author: m1964
Date: 2021-02-11 08:37
Chris,
Thanks- used a polishing wheel and Brasso today. Got them looking a little better. The keys now do not look that dull, of course they don't look like new either. In any case it is a cosmetic problem so it will do for this instrument.
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