Author: clarnibass
Date: 2020-11-12 12:10
Maybe worth re-writing...
>> Thank you for the suggestions. I have garnet shellac flakes (as I am a jeweler and hand engraver), and I may just try to gently place a few flakes in the seam between the tenon and the ring, and give it a quick heat with a heat gun. I think this would be a more permanent connection than either superglue or paper shims. <<
If you meant that literally, you can't really put shellac flakes between the wood and the ring. They would just break, they are very fragile and possibly thicker than the gap.
You heat the ring (off the clarinet), melt shellac until it is covering the entire circumference, making sure the thickness is enough to fill the gap (the gap is usually tiny anyway), then put the ring fast on the clarinet (make sure to insert it all the way before the shellac starts to solidify). Then scrape any extra (careful not to scratch the wood or metal ring) and anything more can be dissolved with alcohol.
It's not really more permanent than the other options. That's a good thing, if conditions change, etc. and it's also easy to redo.
I don't like super glue for this purpose (both liquid and gel) because it's even more rigid and fragile as a gap filler (stronger as a glue though).
With epoxy, even the fast ones are pretty slow, even if they start to harden in five minutes, it takes a lot more for it to cure. Except the one minute type, which also takes a bit more to cure, but borderline to work with for this since it's so fast.
There's another reason I don't like any of these. To remove, you need to heat it to "kill" the glue, then clean it all and redo with whatever method. Just slower and more work with no advantage.
A few things I don't like with paper, plastic, etc.
They are a specific thickness, not necessarily the thickness of the gap. It is very easy to make it too tight. You can't control it completely.
Also, the gap isn't necessarily the same width the entire circumference, but the filler is.
The nice thing about shellac is that it's like an automatic exact size shim. It's also pretty rigid but not very fragile when used this way.
I don't use other heat melting glues because they are usually softer and might move slightly instead of support the wood when it is moving.
I'm not saying other methods are not good, I just prefer this one.
Post Edited (2020-11-14 09:24)
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