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Author: StanD
Date: 2020-10-21 23:57
Hi,
I posted this, possibly out of topic, on another thread and am wondering if others experienced similar problems. So, here’s a new thread, same old problem:Re Uebel Superior: I have the same issue with the left hand sliver key to the extent that I’ve put it away in favor of my R13. The sliver key posts are mounted “lower” than on Buffet (btw; the Buffet sliver fits the Uebel but the pad doesn’t line up because of the post positions) so that the sliver is perpendicular to the upper joint. On the Buffet the sliver slightly curves around the second finger ring. No wiggle room for the LH third finger and I don’t have large hands or wide fingers. I’ve thinned the key to no avail.
Also, has anyone experienced dullness of tone on G, G#, and A just above the staff top line? If so, anybody find the remedy? For me it’s as if the bottom falls out of the sound.
Re pads: Durable but “sticky” and noisy when lifting off tone holes. I’ve had a fair number replaced.
The instrument feels a bit smaller than my Buffet in my hands resulting in the LH alternate Ab/Eb being in the way. Took it off.
Have to admit, though, the build of the horn is SOLID!
If I can get these issues resolved I’ll be better able to determine if the horn is for me.
Stan
Re Uebel Superior: I have an issue with the left hand sliver key to the extent that I’ve put the horn away in favor of my R13. The sliver key posts are mounted “lower” than on Buffet (btw; the Buffet sliver fits the Uebel but the pad doesn’t line up because of the post positions) so that the sliver is perpendicular to the upper joint. On the Buffet the sliver slightly curves around the second finger ring. No wiggle room, on the Uebel, for the LH third finger and I don’t have large hands or wide fingers. I’ve thinned the key to no avail. Continually bumping the sliver no matter how careful not to.
Also, has anyone experienced dullness of tone on G, G#, and A just above the staff top line? If so, anybody find the remedy? For me it’s as if the bottom falls out of the sound.
Re pads: Durable but “sticky” and noisy when lifting off tone holes. I’ve had a fair number replaced.
The instrument feels a bit smaller than my Buffet in my hands resulting in the LH alternate Ab/Eb being in the way. Took it off.
Have to admit, though, the build of the horn is SOLID! Basic tonal spectrum very pleasing though seems “compact”. Enough so that I feel drowned out in a concert band/wind ensemble setting. My Buffet is the better choice there.
If I can get these issues resolved I’ll be better able to determine if the horn is for me.
Stan
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Author: Johan H Nilsson
Date: 2020-10-23 22:28
You can use silicon to mitigate the stickiness. Spray from your hardware store should do. You have to remove the keys though to let the silicone dry.
The variance between individual instruments is usually bigger than between different brands and models.
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Author: m1964
Date: 2020-10-26 07:01
I guess it is possible to remove the key by unsoldering it from the tube, shape it similar to the way like your Buffet has it and resolder. Of course it will need to be replated.
Maybe the shaping can be done without unsoldering but the original plating would be damage so still would need to be re-plated.
If you posted a pic of both Uebel and Buffet upper joints side by side, it may give us better understanding of the problem.
Post Edited (2020-10-26 07:02)
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Author: StanD
Date: 2020-10-29 04:57
Thanks for input. It looks like a key modification or replacement is the solution. Next: the non-resonant G, G#, A just above the staff.
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Author: m1964
Date: 2020-10-31 08:50
StanD wrote:
> Thanks for input. It looks like a key modification or
> replacement is the solution. Next: the non-resonant G, G#, A
> just above the staff.
Cork pad would help. Also increase key opening height.
What I did was to remove the key completely and play the C -> C# -> D, and G -> G# -> A.
If the problem improves then you know it can be helped with the fixes above.
If still stuffy, then some tone holes modification may be required.
***
I had a Rudolf Uebel and a pair of Arthur Uebel clarinets, all made in East Germany, in 70ies.
Rudolf was a really basic student clarinet, with flat stamped keys, and double pad on throat A key that was difficult to replace because you would have to replace both pads.
Arthur Uebels were made better, but still were student instruments, out of tune.
I acquired a B&H later and thought that it had better tuning than Uebels.
Of course, their current instruments must be better than the ones I had.
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